OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
6
Hi All,

First post here but I have spent a substantial amount of time reading on this forum and thanks for all of the great information that you share. I am new to boating as i recently picked up a 1987 19' Chaparral with a 3.0L OMC. This was a CL freebie and normally I would have passed it by but decided to give it a shot. The previous owner told me it had been winterized 3 yrs ago and that he had taken the cover off the boat to do some work and didn't replace it so she sat uncovered and exposed in his backyard. This already sounds like posts I have read...;)

Anyway, after I got the leaves and debris out of the bilge I found some bad signs. First, a crack in the exhaust manifold along with a missing freeze plug. Second, a freeze plug that had come out of the block. It does get to freezing here in LI NY so this is a real bad sign. :eek: I probably should have stopped there and put it right back on CL but, being an optimist (pronounced moron) I decided to keep going.

I ground out and JB welded the exhaust manifold as a temporary fix. Pulled the plugs and sprayed penetrating oil into the cylinders and let it sit for a few days. I replaced the freeze plugs hooked up a battery and jumped the starter. She turned over so I knew she was was not frozen. The starter seemed to be hit or miss in terms of engaging the flywheel so I pulled it and bench tested it and found that it was on its way out. Bought a replacement and she turned over fine. At this point I also replaced the exhaust manifold.

I managed to get it started and had it running on muffs. After the initial run I changed the oil and found milk- or "coffee with milk". It was not very thick but didn't look like oil should. I changed the oil and filter, ran it again on muffs and pulled off a quart and again "coffee with milk"

I checked the posts here and the vast majority point to a cracked block. Here is where the contradictory signs come in. Compression test is good with all cylinders right around 120. I capped the water intake from the out-drive and the outlet to the exhaust manifold hooked up an air hose with a pressure gauge and pressurized it to 20PSI and it held. I did hear air coming from the thermostat housing but it was not enough to register a drop in pressure on the gauge for over a minute or so. Like a jerk, I tried to tighten down the top of the thermostat housing and sheared off a bolt so now that need to be resolved but otherwise I think she holds pressure.

So the questions are-

What is the source of the "milk and coffee" ? Is this just a result of her sitting so long or have i missed something?

Does the pressure test I did on the block also confirm that the head is intact?

Is it possible that the exhaust manifold gasket didn't seat correctly and I am getting water in that way?

I am trying to determine if its worth continuing to invest in this boat or if its too far gone for me ( low to medium mechanical ability) The boat itself needs work (deck replacement) and I don't want to let this become a "runaway train" of a project.

Your advice and guidance are appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom
 

havasuboatman

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Joined
Mar 5, 2009
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904
Re: OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

There is no reason you can't have compression and a cracked block, which, I am sorry to say, you most undoubtedly do. The fact that the "freeze" plug popped out shows you had expantion of the block itself. Freeze plugs have nothing to do with freeze protection. That is not what they actually are. The correct name is core plug. When the block is cast, sand molds are used to create the voids (water passages) inside the block. The core plugs are how the sand is removed.
Water, when it freezes, expands omni-directionally, NOTHING will protect a cast iron block from cracking if the water inside of it freezes.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,603
Re: OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

There is no reason you can't have compression and a cracked block, which, I am sorry to say, you most undoubtedly do.
He said he pressurized his block!

May take a few oil changes to get the water out. What I am having trouble with is the fact that your oil level was going up.
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
6
Re: OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

Havasu,

Doesn't the fact that the cooling system of the block holds 20 PSI indicate that there are no cracks? Every post where there is the possibility of a cracked block seems to have the recommendation of pressure testing the cooling system which is why I did it and it seems to have passed.

I pressure tested the cooling system by connecting an air hose and gauge at the drain plug and capping off the hoses at the T stat housing. That was done in addition to a normal compression test. If the block had a crack then wouldn't air be escaping the same way that water would? I am totally confused...
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 5, 2006
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30,603
Re: OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

Did you replace the riser as well? You used a new gasket right?
 

havasuboatman

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904
Re: OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

Was the block at temp when the 20psi test was done? What happenes to metal when it heats up? It expands and causes the fractures to leak.
 
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Re: OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

By "riser" do you mean the combination manifold? If so, then yes, I replaced the gasket between it and the head as well as the gasket on the front of the manifold, the carb gasket and the gasket between the manifold and the exhaust elbow. I didn't use any sealant (should I have?). I just put the gaskets in and torqued everything down. Thanks for your help.
 
Joined
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Re: OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

Was the block at temp when the 20psi test was done? What happenes to metal when it heats up? It expands and causes the fractures to leak.

No. It was cold. I can heat her up and try it again once I fix the sheared bolt at the T stat housing.
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
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Re: OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

He said he pressurized his block!

May take a few oil changes to get the water out. What I am having trouble with is the fact that your oil level was going up.

The oil level did not go up, at least not by a noticeable amount. I didn't measure precisely but I do not believe there was any gain. I used 4 quarts on the initial change and another 4 on the second change. I extracted less than 4 quarts between changes but believe the loss was to the filter as I did not replace that on the second change.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Re: OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

Its going to take a few oil changes to get all of the water out.

Was the boat sitting around for a long time? Another thing is that if the bilge ever filled with water and water got up to the level of the crankshaft, you will get some seepage into the engine that will also cause your oil to get milky.
 

Grumman59

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 22, 2009
Messages
112
Re: OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

Are you sure that this milky oil is not just diluted sludge that has washed down from the rocker cover with the oil change? Long shot, but I've seen rocker boxes chock full of sludge.
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
6
Re: OMC 3.0 1987 Milky Oil and Contradictory Symptoms

It was sitting for a long time- possibly 3 years :( Unfortunately I do not have any history or know if the bilge ever filled with water. With the amount of debris that was in there it is very possible that the drain plug was clogged at some point and it was sitting in water, snow, etc.

I have not seen any sludge in the rocker arm cover but then again, I have not removed it. Peering in through the oil fill everything looks clean.

What do you guys think the recommended course of action should be?

So far we have one vote for cracked block (Havasu). What do the rest of you think?

I would like to keep $ investment to a minimum until I determine if the engine is viable. A half dozen oil changes wouldn't kill me though.
 
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