89 85hp force

[eash.2]

i took an 89 phantom on trade that needed a starter.when i changed the starter the boat seems to run fine on idle,but when i get on pad the boat doesnt run very high rpms.i have cleaned the carbs (3),and yesterday the boat got on pad quick ran fine at 4000 rpms then started to fall.what do i do now and what is the air mix set at on the carbs.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 89 85hp force

Cheap fix at first would be to replace the fuel diaphragm, You really need to get a manual and do a link and sync. Making sporadic adjustments can make the motor worse. Mixture adjustments is by turning the screw slowly clockwise till it races then counterclockwise till it stumbles. Half way between those two points is ideal for the adjustment maybe going an 1/8 turn counter clockwise to make it run a bit richer.

 

[eash.2]

Re: 89 85hp force

i replaced the fuel pump,and went back into the carbs because i noticed the floats were sticking.found that the needles were about to fall off the floats.so i fixed the problem and readjusted the floats.then i pulled the plugs and turned the motor over and seen that #2 and #3 was plowing fuel out like it should and #1 wasnt.went back into #1 readjusted it put it back on and now only #2 is blowing fuel. its to the point that now i am just lost.

 

[pnwboat]

Re: 89 85hp force

Not sure your method of checking the needle valves/carbs is giving you the correct indication. Did you replace the needle valves? If the floats are adjusted correctly, they should be about parallel to the body of the carb when you hold the carb upside down. After you put everything back together, if the primer bulb gets good and firm after 4 or 5 squeezes, and nothing leaks from the carbs, you should be good to go (aside from idle mixture adjustment).

Factory idle mixture says 1 turn out form slightly seated. Typically I find anywhere from 1 to 1 1/2 turns out is where most motors run the best. What ever you do, do not go ant leaner than 7/8 turn out. The idle mixture circuit does supply a small amount of fuel during off idle and WOT operation. Too lean and you may end up with a damaged piston. Better to run it a tad rich to be safe. Also install a low cost inline filter between the fuel pump and carbs. This prevents any debris from clogging up the needle valve/carb fuel inlet resulting in a lean condition.

Be aware that there are 3 check valves in the fuel pump that are prone to sticking. They are replaceable and can drive you crazy if not checked and replaced if necessary.

 

[eash.2]

Re: 89 85hp force

thank you for your input.now that i seem to have the carbs going right,i have ran the boat and it still wont stay on pad.with the motor running on idle you can pull the plug wire off #1 and there is no change on how it runs.the boat will take off and run the same on only #2,#3.there is no change if #1 plug wire is on or off.i have tested the cyls and have 120lbs on each...
where do i go from here.burn it to the ground or buy another motor?

 

[pnwboat]

Re: 89 85hp force

Now that you've identified an ignition problem, it makes trouble-shooting a bit easier. Not a cake walk but chances of fixing pretty good.

Double check the connections on the terminal block (I think it has 12 positions). This is where all the wires from the CD Modules, trigger and stator are located. Also check the ground wires from each coil to the mounting plate and the ground wire from the mounting plate to the engine block. Repair as needed. If this checks out OK, then move to the next step.

Swap #1 ignition coil with #2. If the problem now moves to #2 (pulling spark plug wire off has no affect on engine performance), the coil on #2 is bad. If no change (problem still stays with #1), you need to check the CD Modules.

Swap the two CD Modules that drive the coils. Be very careful to mark the wires before you start undoing them. You can really get yourself into trouble if you don't get the wires connected properly. You can take a poor running motor and turn it into a non-running motor very easily here. Anyways, if the problem now moves to #3 cylinder, you have a bad CD Module. If no change then you need to check the trigger and stator.

To check the trigger and stator you need an ohm meter. The trigger has three pairs of wires. #1 cyl has a green and orange pair of wires. #2 has red and white/green pair. #3 also has a green and orange pair. Disconnect one of the wires when checking each pair to eliminate anything interfering with your reading. Each pair should read 48 to 52 ohms between them. if readings are different, replace the trigger. If all is within specs, you need to check the stator.

The stator has six leads. Two green/yellow leads to charge the battery. You're not concerned with these. The two blue and two yellow leads are what you're concerned with. Measure between each blue and yellow lead. Remember, disconnect one side when checking. They should read between 680 - -850 ohms.

You should be able to narrow down your ignition problem by following these steps.

 

[eash.2]

Re: 89 85hp force

thanks i will check and see if any of those are the problem an get back with you to tell you what i found out

 

[john from md]

Re: 89 85hp force

If you have a bad CDI circuit, you can switch to the unused circuit in the aft unit. Each has two circuits as the same modules are used in the four cylinder engines.

You need to buy a Clymer manual if you plan to keep this engine.

John