Re: 2002 Mercury 125hp shakes violently, struggles to accelerate, please help
I happen to have the service manual for that engine in front of me. I have the '02 3 cyl 90 hp little brother and I am a retired life long boating individual not a professional dealer/mechanic, but I have maintained all my vehicles from a 1.7 hp Mighty Might OB engine to a 800 cu in Cummins powered 18 wheeler I had for a time, for the past 50 years.
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I don't know where to start with your problem as you mention several things that relate to different/different types of problems. I doubt your water pump nor your spark plug type are part of your problem. Both would exhibit a continuous problem if guilty, not what you are experiencing. When you have intermittent shaking you have lost a cylinder (probably 2 for the reasons stated below) and they are trying to recover. Sometimes they can and sometimes they can't all depends on the degradation and where it is.
With today's electronically controlled engines, I'd like to know what it means to "tune" the engine; don't have points and plugs and variable timing to fool with which used to be what was involved in an engine "tune up"....besides the plugs of course. Now if adding some sort of decarbonization is part of the process (like "Decarbing" mention within this forum's archives) then there could be some "meat" to the term "tune up". (My opinion of course)
For a time (within the late '90-early '02 building cycle at least), on 4 cyl 115/125 Mercs, they shut down 2 cylinders for low speed operation , by design. All they had to do was in a place like the Switch Box, sample rpm's and below a certain level, kill one of the (2) signals coming from the trigger coils under the flywheel which would stop the firing of plugs on 2 of the 4 cylinders. Piece of cake to accomplish, but what it does to the engine as a result is the real question.
It normally shouldn't , BUT if this continues into the higher rpm's (ignition coil or pulse module fault, switch box fault, dirty plugs, gummed up rings, varnish in carbs) this could cause your shaking and loss of power. I personally thought this was a crock of dung design by Merc because it could easily cause these problems where 4 cylinders that ran all the time wouldn't but that was not my decision.
Looking in my service manual it depends upon which section you are in (ignition or fuel) as to what the recommended troubleshooting solutions are. Obviously, each direct you to potential areas in that respective area.
You can't tell anything really about running on the muffs as there is no load on the engine and misfiring cylinders can be easily missed. BTDT You have to have it under load to really tell which means on the boat and in the water.
It's obvious you have misfiring cylinders. Question is which ones and why. Ha! Key to the city.
I have been working on this problem of yours for most of today (currently 3 pm) and I am ready for a conclusion with subsequent feedback from you after following some suggestions.
1. Fresh fuel, clean fuel filter, proper oil level with a good quality TCW-3 oil with the oil pump working...you can see the oil in the clear lines associated with the oil pump, or you can see a slight blue-white haze to the engine exhaust.
2. Get into the search engine on this site and pull up the instructions for, and do, a "Decarb process". Decarb stands for decarbonization and it is designed to get carbon out of your engine which accumulates over time and causes all sorts of problems.
3. I was going to say: "After you decarb, run the engine on the muffs for 20-30 minutes at 1000-1100 rpm's. I would recommend that the water hose pressure is adequate to force some water to spew from beneath the muffs which will run down the lower unit, across the gearbox bulge and provide cooling for lower unit gears."
But I can't say that because your engine only runs on 2 cylinders at that low rpm (if it's one of those) and the non-operational cylinders, which are probably your problem in the first place, are again non operational and thereby the process is futile. Geez I hate that design.
So I don't know what to tell you now. Thinking about it, you can't even do the decarb unless you run the engine above the 2 cyl cutout rpm's (which I think is around 2500) and some say (I don't) that you shouldn't get over 1100 rpms on muffs (quoting an owners manual for a different Merc per a poster herein). Well I do (run them over that for a short period) and I don't worry about it, but that's my engine and my decision. I would say do the decarb in the water with the boat floating, but that may be environmentally hazardous and I don't want to get into that.
So where does that leave us? Beats me. I have a 3 cyl 90 rather than a 4 cyl 115 for that very reason and I don't have those problems. I know you don't want/need to hear that but that's how I addressed the issue.
Good luck and I hope you find a service center that is equipped to adequately investigate and solve your problem.
Best I can do.
Mark
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