Mariner 135hp chasing info please

Fantaysia

Cadet
Joined
Jan 23, 2010
Messages
10
Gday from downunder (australia) to everyone! :) I just aquired a Mariner 135hp 2litre 2 stroke outboard and I have a few questions.

1. it has the super long leg on it, can you make this a normal long leg by removing the extra section between the prop and the leg? (see picture)




2. The serial number is 0B332439 can you tell the year from this?

Thankyou in advance for your knowledge! :)
 

powrguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 7, 2009
Messages
180
Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

That appears to be a 1988 model, with the EXL shaft. I think you have to get a lower unit that's a 25" shaft, and remove the 5" extension section so the driveshaft will give you the correct length. Your driveshaft is EXL on that 30" unit.
 

Fantaysia

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Jan 23, 2010
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Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

Thanks for the info :) I was told it was a 94-96 model lol Its a V6 does that change its age?

 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,156
Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

You may look up the serial number (american motor) at maxrules.com. You may remove the spacer, however, you need to change the driveshaft (not easy) to shorten the leg. Also the studs need to be shorter and the water tube extensions need to come off.
 

sschefer

Rear Admiral
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4,530
Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

You may get lucky and find that it was originally a 20XL but has had a 25EXL kit put on it. That kit included a drive shaft coupling and an extension. You can remove the kit and it's instantly back to a 20 XL. I only recently discovered that a kit was made when I found a mid with one on it. I thought is was something fabricated but the owner ensured me that he bought the kit from Merc. I passed on it.

If it is factory then it's likely that the shaft is a 25 and will need to be changed. You can probably just buy a used 20XL lower unit and save yourself money in the long run. As was said before you will have to change the studs and remove the water tube extension which is at the top of the tube and it can be troublesome getting the rubber grommet back in the two piece exhaust plate. I'd just cut the tube at the bottom. I think I remember the water tube lenght is 19" for the XL.

The good news is that if the engine is otherwise mechanically sound, you've got a good basically bullet proof engine design that Merc sold without any major changes for 20 years. Someone has already taken steps to keep it in good shape by removing the oil pump and making it a pre-mix. Hopefully that wasn't done because the pump failed.
 

Fantaysia

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Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

..... Someone has already taken steps to keep it in good shape by removing the oil pump and making it a pre-mix. Hopefully that wasn't done because the pump failed.

That would be really good if it was a kit :) As you can see on the boat its planned for we really need a standard long leg not a xxl one.

As for the pump well it did fail and the guy said it did damage to pistons or something, but he spent many $$$ fixing it and assured us it's working 100%. He said he had receipts for AU$2500 worth of work but I forgot to grab or see them.

I bought it just the other day for AU$500 with forward controls and guages. I haven't started it or anything yet. My dad has worked on the old blue band mercs before but never anything this new. He isnt a marine mech or anything he just knows stuff about stuff :) We plan to mount it, then try to start it.

Can you suggest anything I should do before attemping to start it? Aparently its been sitting for a while.
 

Droll

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2003
Messages
514
Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

Can you suggest anything I should do before attemping to start it? Aparently its been sitting for a while.

Might read tru this post in the FAQ section .

Else... drain and refill it's lower unit oil, drain the whole fuel system ( hoses + carbs ), replace the impeller, use fresh NEW fuel with the proper amount ( 2% ) of 2-stroke oil ( Tcw3 approved )...
Check all fuel hoses for cracks/leaks, ditto on the electric wires ( we don't want fuel leaks and sparks :eek: )...


Arne Kjetil
 

sschefer

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Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

That would be really good if it was a kit :) As you can see on the boat its planned for we really need a standard long leg not a xxl one.

As for the pump well it did fail and the guy said it did damage to pistons or something, but he spent many $$$ fixing it and assured us it's working 100%. He said he had receipts for AU$2500 worth of work but I forgot to grab or see them.

I bought it just the other day for AU$500 with forward controls and guages. I haven't started it or anything yet. My dad has worked on the old blue band mercs before but never anything this new. He isnt a marine mech or anything he just knows stuff about stuff :) We plan to mount it, then try to start it.

Can you suggest anything I should do before attemping to start it? Aparently its been sitting for a while.
There are several excellent posts on here about how to bring a dormant motor back to life.

Essentially, you don't want to try to start it to begin with. Because I really work hard for my money I tend to go a tad further than most would. Mind you this is probably a lot more than may be minimally necessary but it will ensure you don't damage an otherwise good engine.

I would first pull the heads and spray the cylinders with what is known as fogging oil. You can buy it at most good marine stores. I'd then gently rotate the engine and re fog as necessary to get a good coating on all the cylinders. If the engine turns easily and the cylinders all look good then I'd put new head gaskets on it and put the heads back on. I'd then pull the carbs and fuel pump and rebuild them.

At the same time I'd do exactly as was mentioned before. I'd replace all the filters and fuel lines and I'd test the bleeder check valves replacing any that were not working properly. I would get rid of the advance module or idle stabilizer (which ever yours has) if they haven't already been removed. These have been known to be deadly to these engines and Merc no longer sells them. Check all the other electricals paying special attention to the wiring that runs over the top of #1 cylinder. This is a failure point if #1 gets hot the wiring coverings have been known to melt through and can short out several components.

If all that is good then run a compression test to determine if your cylinders rings are in good shape. Compression on this engine should be around 110 lbs. These engines have compression relief ports in the cylinders and the heads are pretty fat so they don't make very high compression. Put new NGK BU8H spark plugs in it. And do a link and sync procedure according to the manual. Set the inital timing to about 4 deg ATDC and the max WOT timing to 19 degrees. You can bump it to 20 after it's running well.

If it all looks good, mix up 2 gals of high octane fuel at 35-40:1 (about 3.2 oz of oil to 1 gal of fuel) and add 4 to 6 oz. of Sea Foam. Put the fuel hose in the gas can and pump the primer bulb until its hard. Trim the motor all the way down and if your not at the water, connect a hose to the engines water intakes in the lower unit using a set of ear muffs that you can buy at your local marine shop. Turn the water on and adjust to a medium pressure.

Make sure your saftey lanyard is in place, turn the key to run and push in for 5 seconds to prime/choke the engine. Position the throttle in the neutral run position just slightly open and start the engine.

The engine will run fuel lean on this mixture so don't rev it over 1500 rpms during this phase. Run the engine for 15 minutes, then let it sit for 15 minutes and then run it again for 15 minutes. It will smoke a lot and probably idle rough but that's is to be expected.

If it feels like its ready, run the engine on a proper 50:1 fuel mixture (2.6 oz of TCW3 rated 2 cycle outboard motor oil per gal of fuel).

Like I said in the beggining, this is probably excessive by many folks thoughts but it will ensure that your engine is ready to be run after a long snooze.

Don't forget that water pump...

Hope this gets your going.. I know it's summer there and your itching to get that boat out on the water but take your time and you won't find your boat powered by a paddle.

Steve
 

Fantaysia

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Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

Wow super post Steve :) thanks for the indepth info. I think the removal of heads is a bit technical for me, but the other info is good advice thankyou.
 

Fantaysia

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Joined
Jan 23, 2010
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Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

As for my chances of having a kit on don't think I got lucky :( Seems to be a single shaft of 25.



Are there any problems mounting an engine a bit higher or should we just mount it normally and run it deep? Also is this motor too big for our little boat?

:confused: BTW: dont worry about the hammer and flat head, I kept Dad away with these tools :D
 

sschefer

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Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

Wow super post Steve :) thanks for the indepth info. I think the removal of heads is a bit technical for me, but the other info is good advice thankyou.

You can fog it through the plug holes but you loose the advantage of being able to see what the bores look like. In most cases you'll be just fine.

You could buy a Jack Plate but it will probably run you about as much as a used 20" lower unit. It's a toss up.

Your picture doesn't tell me enough about your boat for me to say if the motor is too big or not.

I'll leave you with this thought.... Boating safety is all about making the water ways a safe and fun place for everyone. Ambulance rides aren't usually the result of safe boating.
 

Fantaysia

Cadet
Joined
Jan 23, 2010
Messages
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Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

Well its been a couple of weeks but my dad has been busy and got the motor mounted and running!

It started straight up after a quick choke, and there was no stream of water until about 30 or so seconds later ... then we ran it for a bit and the temp went up to 100 ... then slowly to 130 and sat there .... then the stream of water sputted and kept stopping and spitting then just steam was coming out and the temp went up to 140 so i shut it off.
Its idling at just under 1000rpm and seems to shake a bit but idles well.

Do you think the impeller has failed? I will order one off ebay anyway i think. Is it possible we blocked the tube putting the bottom leg back on? (was tight fit for the little water tube and the gear selector cog)

See my videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfl5qDln4aY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zLj-gCanv0

EDIT: Also my trim and tilt is working but when the engine is tilted up it very very very slowly comes back down. There is no loss of oil that i can see but there is a very very small amount around the main hydrolic ram. Any idea's anyone? Thankyou in advance :)
 

sschefer

Rear Admiral
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Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

That little water tube by your gear selector cog is for your speedometer. The tell tail stream comes off the thermostat side of the cooling system. The thermostats should open at 143 degrees. The temp sounds fine to me. The idle is pretty high, you should be at around 750-800 on the hose. You change the idle by adjusting the initial timing.

Sounds like a little Merc QuickClean in the gas might straighten out the shaking problem. As for the tilt/trim. It should come down fairly quickly until it hits the trim rams then it should slow significantly but continue to a full down position.
 

Fantaysia

Cadet
Joined
Jan 23, 2010
Messages
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Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

That little water tube by your gear selector cog is for your speedometer. The tell tail stream comes off the thermostat side of the cooling system. The thermostats should open at 143 degrees. The temp sounds fine to me. The idle is pretty high, you should be at around 750-800 on the hose. You change the idle by adjusting the initial timing.

Sounds like a little Merc QuickClean in the gas might straighten out the shaking problem. As for the tilt/trim. It should come down fairly quickly until it hits the trim rams then it should slow significantly but continue to a full down position.

Thanks for your reply! :) So the thermostat opens at around 143 then the water stream starts? We had a water stream at first then it stopped and was replaced by steam. The water was very hot. I turned the engine off at 140. What is the normal operating temperature of this motor? Will the water stream return?

I'll get dad to take a look at the timing and adjust the idle. Does the motor seem ok from the little you can see/hear on the video?

Also the trim and tilt does go up and down normally, but when you tilt the motor up and leave it it up .. it slowly falls down by itself rather than staying up. It takes a while though to fall. any idea's on that?

Thank you so much for your information. It's really great to hear from experienced people. :)
 

Dukedog

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
3,449
Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

Motor doesn't sound bad at all.

"New to you" motor recomend ya do a complete water pump "kit", new t-stats and poppet. After that ya know whats there and worth tha peace a mind.

Wouldn't worry 'bout tha idle till you get it in tha water, in gear and under an idle load. Settin' on tha trailer, backed in tha water will work. JMO and GL with it...............D
 

Fantaysia

Cadet
Joined
Jan 23, 2010
Messages
10
Re: Mariner 135hp chasing info please

Well I finally got to test the motor thanks to all the help I received from you guys :) I replaced the thermostats and impeller and now it runs sweet.

I took it for a short test before replacing the impeller and didn't get very far and hence didn't test it much. From what I remember (my eye was on the rising temp gauge the whole time) the boat was sitting very low in the water. When I stood in the rear of the boat it would have been 20cm or less above the water. The boat is 5m long but not very wide. Is this motor way too big for this boat? I may have the opportunity to swap it for a 90hp V4 Johnson of the same age. Would this motor be heaps lighter?

Should I just test it again now its not overheating?

Cheers



 
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