new here, almost ready to reassemble

[osborn159]

Hello, looking for guidance from those that have been there already.
i am rebuilding a 1974 osborn 15' 9" hull, have most of the lumber cut, transom stringers etc. ???'s abound about cloth/mat weights, probably will use polyester resin to wet out all due to budget.
i guess my biggest ???s are.
1. what weight mat/cloths to use and how many plys?
2. how mush resin will it take to complete transom stringers and deck replacement?, i do intend on coating underside of deck with resin and 1 layer of mat.
3. i have 15yds of 1708-50 biax cloth mat, got it for $40 from a buddy, the local glasssupplier wanted $130, also have 25yds of 1.5oz mat, can i use the 1708 to cover stringers or do I need woven roving? I went overboard on stringers, i'm using 2x's instead of the 1x's that where there.
4.i am converting from a dual side console to a center console any issues there?
5. how much tabbing of the transom is neccesary?
have done glass work before just never in a boat setting, guess thats where all the ???s come from
thanks for your help, advice and tips in advance.
dennis

 

[jonesg]

Re: almost ready to reassemble

Re: almost ready to reassemble

I have a 20' heavy center console, I used 1 1/2 oz matt on everything, merely built up the thickness where needed.
Stringers got 2 layers, 3 at joints.
17o8 will suck it up like a sponge, I'd start with 3 or 4 gals.
Tab transom all around sides and bottom then do the whole back of the transom with 2 layers, actually I did mine out of the boat then installed and just tabbed , I did the transom core with seacast composite pour in.
I think I used 2 or 3 gals totoal but I didn't change the deck, I have a molded glass deck and that went back in. You'll need a gal of acetone.
Order unwaxed resin, no sanding required between coats, just keep slapping it on.

The only issue going to CC is thinking ahead for the controls, run a grey pvc pipe, 4 inch ID to make things easier in the future. It works better if its slightly offset from center to accomodate the steering cable loop.
Don't locate the pipe exit in the centerline of the transom, it needs to offset to the side again so the engine controls can loop gently to connect to the engine, look at some similar installations.

 

[osborn159]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

Thanks for the response jonesg.
tabs should be 8" am i correct?
I've been getting my resin at a local hardware store not sure if it is unwaxed resin will check the can and get from another source if need be.
Cables will run over the deck under a cover, same one used in a carolina skiff.
is there anything that can be used in place of areosil to make peanutbutter consistancy? trying to stay on the low side of the budget if possible.

 

[jonesg]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

I use cabosil, its cheap enough.
Avoid anything that can absorb water such as flour, wood flour or talc.

Almost all hardware store resin is waxed,
you get better grade resin , unwaxed, over the internet.
USComposites is popular.

I get mine from this place,
http://www.fiberglasssite.com/servlet/the-74/Premium-Polyester-Resin-1/Detail
I like that they ship the wax seperately, you can mix it in or go waxless.
Have to say I have yet to add wax to resin so I have lots of handy little plastic bottles.

The silica resin thickener(aerosil etc) is only $8.
Add it to the resin first, then the catalyst and then work FAST!
http://www.fiberglasssite.com/servlet/the-Resin-Thickener-cln-Colloidal-Silica/Categories

If you have some waxed resin , use it for final coats, it will cure dry to the touch, unwaxed resin remains a bit tacky but will dry cure after a while.
Waxed resin is easier to sand, it doesn't tend to clog the paper.
But for most stringer work and transom you're not concerned with cosmetics.

Watch how fast this guy slaps the resin on, get it out of the bucket asap.
Use a big brush, have the acetone ready to rinse it asap too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Gzq...5443C829B&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=1

 

[jonesg]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

From the glassite, more fiber glassing videos than you could watch.
How to Repair Fiberglass

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsoKAHU5xUw

How To Fiberglass - Two Part Mold Construction - #1 Flanging

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzng9HeGNPE

How To Fiberglass - Mold Layup

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsvgaWHPMF4&feature=related

#1 making a fibreglass mould using optimold tooling resin

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVgF9QePV5I

# 2 making a fibreglass mould using optimold tooling resin

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Gzq...5443C829B&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=1

#3 making a fibreglass mould using optimold tooling resin

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mvl...D678B06E&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=24

lining a baptism pool with fibreglass part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nx9aT9xeYBg&feature=channel

Lining a baptism pool with fibreglass part 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyDlbRjl8fk&feature=channel

HOW TO FIBERGLASS * The Original * The Series * Part 1 * Cowl Induction Scoop * Go Fast Fiberglass

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXkR94AQjFM

Howto: Building a Transom

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lh6RkYNxiHw

Stinger Repair Assessment

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QH4Qhr2mEIw

Fiberglass Repair How to Part I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6N7YMr6E564

Fiberglass Repair Howto Part II

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrxhGYXEjkA

McClarin Plastics - How to Repair Fiberglass

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBxnaY0mFMk

Fibreglassing a pool 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CbDhJ3yZws

Koi pond fibreglassing by GRP Lining Services POOL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYrU8IdUKxk

PU Foam Pre-lining to blockwork pool.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQ9QSjZTiHo

Fibreglassing a concrete pool

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CbDhJ3yZws

Topcoat Application fiberglass pool, gelcoat or pool paint

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYoZDcgk8Ec

Fibreglassing a koi pond. Pool 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ndt2iCBfmrY

Single application of flowcoat on a fibreglassed POOL 3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9mRj_7mETo

Fibreglassing. Pool over foam 4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFYNFaRa3_c

PPI Fiberglass Making a rc boat from fiberglass http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TvYrCgtf54

Making Fiberglass Molds small parts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJ5A7Aiu0rU

Mastering Mold Making Part -1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YUMerfaFGI

Monumental Molds & Fiberglass Castings

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNJfAqYt82s

Fiberglassing a small boat hull / Hull Glass

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7y6IvF_Euc&feature=related

Fiberglassing a small boat hull / Cockpit tape - Part I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSqd3jDgnlA

Fiberglassing a small boat hull / Stern Fillet and Glass

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jv4fwRUaVMo

Boat Building / taping

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnPY2lHsR1E

Fiberglass Repair / repairing a hole

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMVCwhz_hY4

How to Repair Fiberglass 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBxnaY0mFMk&feature=related

Fiberglass Repair Howto Part I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6N7YMr6E564&feature=related

Fiberglass Repair Howto Part II

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrxhGYXEjkA&feature=related

 

[nitrosteve]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

Thanks jonesg these are very helpful links.

 

[osborn159]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

again, thanks, the links have been helpful, have worked with glass b4 just not sure of the structural strength needed in a boat, like how much tape in corners and such as that. how far does aerosil/cabosil go i came across a gallon plastic can of aerosil in my buddys garage. what is the ratio to a quart or gallon of resin?

 

[oops!]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

i see jonsey has you well covered...

just one thing....the job will be a minimum of 5 gals....if you use waxed....you cannot do a second layer without sanding.

if you are glassing in colder temps you will use twice the amount of resin.

the 1708 is one wrap over the stringers.

its cheaper to bed the stringers in pl 9000 construction glue (let cure then glass) than peanut butter.

a 6 inch tab on the transom of 1708 is lots

the hull extension thread covers all ratios on mixing peanut butter....

 

[osborn159]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

thanks oops, anyone know where to get pl9000 in the US the list on their website is canadian outlets im in central florida near orlando.
sounds easier thaan mixing resin as well

 

[oops!]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

home depot or lowes

 

[jonesg]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

again, thanks, the links have been helpful, have worked with glass b4 just not sure of the structural strength needed in a boat, like how much tape in corners and such as that. how far does aerosil/cabosil go i came across a gallon plastic can of aerosil in my buddys garage. what is the ratio to a quart or gallon of resin?

A gal of aerosil is plenty, mix it til it thickens to where you want it, for vertical application I like it like mayonaise, slightly gel texture, then add the catalyst.

It will heat up a lot faster than straight resin with catalyst, so you have to have your ducks in a row or it will set in the mixing can.

The resin I buy has a range for the catalyst, in warm weather go on the lighter end with catalyst. Work in the shade.
Look at the hull extention post for using rollers on big areas.
I like 4 inch cheapo brushes.

 

[73Steury]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

I'm doing a similar job on my 73 Steury. I've read that some guys don't use wood stringers but use foam boards to support the glass. My question is, are the plywood stringers for support or simply to support the glass. If using plywood how thick should the gap be between the hull and the stringer. And not to sound dumb, but, what is the compound you are calling peanut butter?
Thanks.

 

[osborn159]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

73steury, not sure on your 1st coupe ???S, peanut butter is resin and either cabosil or aerosil mixed with whatever resin you are using to that consistency, then use similar to bondo for radiusing corners and such

 

[jonesg]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

Wooden stringers are spaced off the hull to prevent hard points which will make stress cracks. 1/4 inch gap is plenty.
The strength of the joint comes from the glass/resin from stringer to hull on each side of the stringer.

I wouldn't bother with expensive composite foam stringers unless I got it free.

 

[sbklf]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

Wooden stringers are spaced off the hull to prevent hard points which will make stress cracks. 1/4 inch gap is plenty.
The strength of the joint comes from the glass/resin from stringer to hull on each side of the stringer.

What?? Why would you do this? If the strength of the stringer is not from the wood, there are a lot of people out there replacing rotten stringers for nothing.

DO NOT leave a gap between the wood stringer and the hull. You need to bed your wood stringers to the hull (solid) and taper the tabbing so the strength of the stringer is gradually distributed over a larger area.

 

[osborn159]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

going to the store to check for pl adhesive is it necessary to get pl9000 or will one of the other products work just as well??
thanks again, dennis

 

[sbklf]

Re: new here, almost ready to reassemble

going to the store to check for pl adhesive is it necessary to get pl9000 or will one of the other products work just as well??
thanks again, dennis

If the pl9000 is like liquid nails that is not a good choice, it needs to be a solid bond. Use thickened resin (thickened to the point not to sag) and you can form your fillets at the same time. Depending on the stringer configuration, taper the tabbing to the distance recommended. Then your stringer will be bonded to the hull and the tabbing will bond to it.