DIY transom repair? Whats up with this?

fishinAK1

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
18
Hello all
first thanks for all the help I have already gleaned from this site!

Now, I will try to make this as clear and short as possible. Hopfully I can add pic and that will help.

I just purchased a 24 foot Olympic. about 10 yrs ago the boat was converted from an I/o to an outboard. Instead of mounting the OB off a swim stem, they cut down the transom and added a splashwell.

So there is a seam where the corner of the transom/spashwell meets the original boat. That seam was covered by an alumiium furring strip and caulked over. Well the caulk was getting old so I thought Id take the strip off, see what it looks like and recaulk. What I found was a much larger seem than I expected....please see pics.

SOOO now Im not sure what to do. Im thinking epoxy/marine Tex the hell out of it. I dont think there is really ANY stress on this seam or much structual importance. So would marine tex work? Should I do it?

but my biggest question...Why wasnt this seam just glassed into the original hull to begin with?

PLEASE any and all thoughts, ideas, and suggestions GREATLY appreciated.

PS the wood is a little wet but definatly NOT rotten. Can I marinetex/epoxy/glass in 40 degree rainy weather?

Thanks!!!
 

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solar7647

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
1,218
Re: DIY transom repair? Whats up with this?

If you can get to the under side of the gap I would say fiber glass it. Get some
10oz cloth and some resin and put one layer of fiber glass across the gap from the under side be shure to wet out all the cloth. Once the fiber glass sets then use a marine body filler and fill it from the top side. Then once the filler sets up you can sand and paint. It should come out seem less.
To do fiber glass or body filler its recomended that it be above 50 degrees and dry.

This is a short video that will help explain the process to fix it with fiberglass. Just instead of using the GelCoat you can fill with the body filler after the glass sets.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsoKAHU5xUw

If you cant do all that the second thing I would try would to get a wide enough aluminum or SS steel trim peice that can be bent so that one peice will cover the gap, then apply some kind od RTV/silicon to the edge of the gap, put the trim over it and screw the trim down. you can then trim any of the RTV off that comes out the edge. That way it will look good.

It dosent seem to be a place that sees alot of stess so eather way would do the job but the fiberglass will be stronger.

Good luck
 

fishinAK1

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
18
Re: DIY transom repair? Whats up with this?

Ok. That sounds easy enuf. Would this fiberglass and body filler be stronger than filling the whole viod with MarineTex? MT sure seams easier. it was a alumium strip and silicon just as you suggested. to me, it just seems a bit hoky and certainly not as h2o proof.

I still wonder why this wasnt glassed and filled when the conversion/rebuild tool place?

Any more suggestions?
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: DIY transom repair? Whats up with this?

That area looks to me like it needs some strength added to it. Just filling it with MarineTex isn't going to do that. And it will probably re-crack fairly quickly. I'd try to do as solar suggested.
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: DIY transom repair? Whats up with this?

The problem is the wood is wet, so if you fix it right you'll only have to rip it apart in a couple of years again. It don't take long once the water gets in.

But if you want to cover it up ( and I don't blame you !),
grind the seam back 2 inches either side, grind the gelcoat down into the matting and lay a strip of cloth in it, then another. Until its almost fair, then thicken some gelcoat with cabosil and leave it just proud and sand it back flush, wet and dry fine grade and will look like new.
I wouldn't use rtv or silicone, its a dirt magnet and won't hold up.

As Solar wrote, if you can get to the underside thats the way to fly,
but access looks a bit tight.

The cap on mine was loose and I managed to get under there with a 2 inch brush duct taped to a dowel, splashed some resin around and reached under with some glass tape, then back with the brush again, very sloppy but it did the trick, I got a nifty looking resin hairstyle too.
I probably had a bit more room than you.

Have to wonder, is an I/O transom is designed to hold an outboard?
 

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timfives

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2009
Messages
382
Re: DIY transom repair? Whats up with this?

I'd be more concerned about water having penetrated the crack. can you tell if the wood is wet?

You should double check to see how that area is supported. Maybe get someone to add pressure on the motor to see if it that area flexes?

T
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
Joined
May 19, 2001
Messages
26,066
Re: DIY transom repair? Whats up with this?

I just purchased a 24 foot Olympic. about 10 yrs ago the boat was converted from an I/o to an outboard. Instead of mounting the OB off a swim stem, they cut down the transom and added a splashwell.

So there is a seam where the corner of the transom/spashwell meets the original boat. That seam was covered by an alumiium furring strip and caulked over. Well the caulk was getting old so I thought Id take the strip off, see what it looks like and recaulk. What I found was a much larger seem than I expected....please see pics.


PS the wood is a little wet but definatly NOT rotten. Can I marinetex/epoxy/glass in 40 degree rainy weather?

I looked at your pictures and they raised a few questions ....... That really appears as if someone rebuilt the transom but were too lazy to remove the whole cap and just made the cut. Everything looks too tidy to be a switchover without finishing those cuts. I really do question that it was a IO by those pictures. :confused:

40 degrees and raining :redface: well you are either going to have a tent or shelter or wait for warmer weather. Combining the cold with the dampness will only lead to harder repair with possible poor results. I feel your pain since I have similar weather here (which has my boat project on hold :( )

Fiberglass both sides and fair out the surface repair. The wood needs to be dry so you are not trapping water and get the best possible bond.

If it worth doing then it is worth doing right.
 
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