Reverse does not work

beginner22

Cadet
Joined
May 10, 2010
Messages
7
Hello all.

I am a first time boater and new to this site. I just bought a 1985 19.4' Robalo with a 1989/1990 200HP Johnson outboard. I just replaced the VRO pump. It wasn't cheap. I took it out for the 2nd time just to find out the motor will not go into reverse. It grinds. I can move forward fine and it is ok in idle and it appears and can idle backwards, but when I try to put it all the way in gear it sounds like it is grinding the gear away. Any advice? Thank you...
 

marinemech1

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
623
Re: Reverse does not work

the shift handle should move a equal amount for forward and reverse...if your hitting forward early and reverse late a simple cable adjust should do it. Just loose cable anchor and turn adjustment trunnion so cable gets longer...keep checking adjustment and continue until you have balanced the shift.
If you run out of cable adjustment the shift rod maqy be set incorrectly.Let us know how you make out.
Wayne
 

beginner22

Cadet
Joined
May 10, 2010
Messages
7
Re: Reverse does not work

Thanks Wayne.

It appears you are right. I will make the adjustments, however, am I able to put the motor into gear in my backyard using a barrel of water or do I actually need to put into the water to test? Thanks for your help.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Reverse does not work

Motor not running (recommended)...... simply spin the propeller while shifting to align the shifter dogs with the gear dogs (either gear).

(Centering Shift Cable)
(J. Reeves)

When all is as it should be, the proper method to adjust the shift cable is to disconnect the cable from the engine. Move the shift linkage on the engine to find the center of the play in neutral, and when found, leave it centered.

Now, grab the end of the shift cable sleeve, push and pull it to find the center of the play there, and center that play.

Adjust the trunion on the threaded portion of the shift cable so that the centered play of the cable lines up with the centered play of the engine's shift linkage. Install and lock the shift cable with the retaining clamp in that position. That's it.

NOTE: If anyone has had the lower unit off and turned the shift rod which has a critical length adjustment, it will be impossible to shift equally into both gears. Should this be the case, it will be necessary to drop the lower unit in order to correct the adjustment. Hopefully someone here will jump in with that measurement.
 

beginner22

Cadet
Joined
May 10, 2010
Messages
7
Re: Reverse does not work

So I did what you guys told me and it worked. I took the boat out yesterday and put it into full reverse and it worked great, however, between neutral and full reverse it still grinds. It like I have all or nothing. Also, not sure why but when I have the boat in the driveway with the earmuffs on it starts with the first turn of the key. When I get in the water it doesn't seem to be getting any gas. If I take the hood off and rev it up manually while turning the key it fires up. Do I need to adjust the carbs? Thanks for your help.
 

beginner22

Cadet
Joined
May 10, 2010
Messages
7
Re: Reverse does not work

I adjusted the carbs and now the engine is running great. Still not sure what is wrong with the reverse or how to fix it. Does anyone have any ideas? When I go into reverse full throttle there is no problems however when I am in reverse slow there is grinding noises.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Reverse does not work

NOTE: If anyone has had the lower unit off and turned the shift rod which has a critical length adjustment, it will be impossible to shift equally into both gears. Should this be the case, it will be necessary to drop the lower unit in order to correct the adjustment. Hopefully someone here will jump in with that measurement.

I realize that the engine isn't actually jumping out of gear BUT the following may give you some insight on the problem.

(Jumping Out Of Gear - Manual Type)
(J. Reeves)

This pertains to lower units on all OMC manual shift outboard engines, or any OMC engine with lower units defined as a Shift Assist or a Hydro Electric Shift unit which incorporates a "Shifter Clutch Dog".

Within the lower unit, splined to the prop shaft is what is most often referred to as a clutch dog, hereafter simply called dog. The dog has at least two lobes protruding from it on both ends, facing both forward and reverse gear. The forward and reverse gears also have lobes built into them near their center area. When the engine is running, in neutral, the gears are spinning constantly via the driveshaft being connected directly to the powerhead crankshaft, but the propeller does not turn due to the fact that the dog is centered between the two gears, and the dog lobes are not touching either of the gear lobes.

When the unit is put into either gear, shift linkages force the dog (and its lobes of course) to engage the lobes of the gear. The lobes of the spinning gear grab the lobes of the dog, and since the dog is splined to the prop shaft, the propeller turns.

The lobes of the dog and gears are precisely machined, most with right angled edges that could be installed in either direction, and some with angles slightly varied that must be installed in one direction only (one end only must face the propeller). Dogs that can be installed in one direction only, if reversed, even if the dog and both gears were new.... would jump out of gear almost immediately. Keep in mind that the lobes are precisely machined with sharp angles!

Due to improper adjustment or worn shift linkages, but usually due to improper slow shifting, those precisely machined sharp edges of the lobes become slightly rounded. Now, with those lobes rounded, as the rpms increase, the pressure of the gear lobes upon the dog lobes increases to a point whereas they are forced apart (jumping out of gear), and due (usually) to the shift cable keeping tension on the engines shift linkages..... the unit is forced back into gear giving one the sensation that the engine has hit something, and the cycle continues.

Some boaters with manual shift engines have the mistaken belief that shifting slowly is taking it easy on all of the shifting components..... Wrong! Shifting slowly allows those precisely machined sharp edges of the dog and gears to click, clank, bang, slam against each other many times before they are finally forced into alignment with each other..... and this is what rounds those edges off! The proper way to shift is to snap the unit into gear as quickly as possible.
 
Top