Water pump 175hp

Pevan123

Recruit
Joined
May 17, 2010
Messages
2
I have a 1986 175hp mercury. I am kind of new this. but i recently found out that my fuel pump had a hole in the diaphragm so i bought the kit and it worked fine. but as i was testing that everything was going alright i fried the water pump. Im not sure what to do at this point do i just take the lower unit off and look around. i saw the kits online for about $25. maybe a diagram would help.
 

sschefer

Rear Admiral
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Messages
4,530
Re: Water pump 175hp

I have a 1986 175hp mercury. I am kind of new this. but i recently found out that my fuel pump had a hole in the diaphragm so i bought the kit and it worked fine. but as i was testing that everything was going alright i fried the water pump. Im not sure what to do at this point do i just take the lower unit off and look around. i saw the kits online for about $25. maybe a diagram would help.

For a water pump you can usually get enough info to repair it from a Seloc or Clymer manual that you can buy at your local chain book store. If you plan on doing much more than that then get the correct Mercury Service Manual for your engine.
 

Jacket4life

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Messages
382
Re: Water pump 175hp

sschefer (as usual) is right. I did mine using a Clymer. Plenty of info to do that, but I'm wanting to do more, and there are some sections I don't feel have enough info, so I'm buying a Merc manual.

Changing an impeller was MUCH easier than I expected. Just take your time and follow the steps. In fact, there are several threads on here that have the steps outlined, I'll look and see if I can copy and paste it for you.
 

Jacket4life

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Messages
382
Re: Water pump 175hp

Here you go, from another thread:

1. Remove the trim tab (right above the prop) Before you remove it, make some kind of mark so you know where to put it back. (It's not straight, if you will notice...)

2. Remove the nut that is hidden by the trim tab. Yes, many have not know this and done irreperable damage while trying to remove a unit while it was still there.

3. Remove the nut forward of this nut.

4. LOOSEN the two nuts at to front of the lower unit to the top of the threads on the studs. Wiggle the lower unit until it "drops down" onto these nuts. The reason you do it this way is because they sometimes stick, and if you have to put more force on it, you don't want to hurt yourself of the lower unit when it flies off.

5. After it drops down, remove the nuts and then slide the lower unit off.

6. If your engine has reverse lock, remove the plastic seelve at the top of the driveshaft. Look at it first so you know how to put it back.

7. Remove the washer at the top of the impeller housing.

8. Remove the nuts holding the water pump housing.

9. Remove the housing. Check the wear plate. If it looks like #@%&, replace it.

10. Slide the impeller up the shaft. You may or may not have to remove the impeller key to do so. I did not. If you are going to go deeper (into the actual water pump, you will have to remove it. YOu may want to remove it anyway, it's pretty small.

11. Check the wear plate below the impeller, see #9.

12. If you are stopping there, re-install the new impeller. Make sure turning the impeller turns the drive shaft.

13. Reverse your steps up to installing the lower unit. Grease the top of the driveshaft (the splines) and the shift shaft. DO NOT turn the shift shaft while you have the lower unit off. (If you want to know why, look up my thread titled forward/reverse backward. Title should tell you plenty about why to leave it alone!) Before installing it, I would also reccommend you blow through or run a small piece of 14 gauge wire through the outlet tube from the tell tale back through the water tube. A lot of time there are bugs/dirt dobber residue/crap in this hose.

14. When you are installing the lower unit, MAKE SURE you don't force anything! If you do it right, it slides right in. If you force it, you WILL break something. You may have to turn the flywheel by hand SLIGHTLY to align the splines. BE PATIENT. My first time, it went directly back on, second time took 20 minutes.

15. After installation, replace lower unit lube. The proper way to do this is to remove the vent screw (the top screw on the side of your lower unit labeled 'vent'), remove the bottom screw (labelled 'drain'). Pump lube into unit until it overflows out the top hole. Re-install the top screw. Then install the bottom screw as quickly as possible. Yes, you will lose a LITTLE. If it ALL runs out, try again. Do not try to fill it without the top screw removed, you will overfill it leading to larger problems. This is one of the few things I buy into the factory part issue, I use the quicksilver lower unit lube. It's $9 a quart in TX, but I have heard too many ppl. complain about lower unit problems when they used something cheaper. My 50 holds about a pint, so I'm guessing your 70 isn't much higher than that. Atwood makes a handy little pump they sell at Wally World hanging right above the Quicksilver lube. I think it was $7 totally worth it, IMO.

I probably left something off, but I know that's basically it. Best of luck to you!


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Jacket4life
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