reed vavles

jman_2_5

Cadet
Joined
May 26, 2010
Messages
15
Hi i am a newby so im sorry for the aggrevation i might cause some!! I have a 70s 150hp mercury and dad says needs reed vavles. How hard is this might i ad i am very mechanical but havent did anything with boats? Where could i order the parts from cause i have looked online a little and havent found anything. on this site only found reed plate gaskets? I know without all the proper information this will be hard, but im looking for something. Some information is better than none. Thanks
 

Mi duckdown

Commander
Joined
Apr 14, 2007
Messages
2,575
Re: reed vavles

Serial number first . A Merc OEM repair manual is next. From there you can find/repair almost anything if the parts are still available.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,931
Re: reed vavles

What makes you think reeds are bad? They do not wear out as they are spring steel, they will chip and break but not wear out. If it the ols inline 6 150 hp he likely means the reed blocks.
 

jman_2_5

Cadet
Joined
May 26, 2010
Messages
15
Re: reed vavles

He thinks it needs them cause its running rough i guess im not real sure he want 200 for the boat and trailer thats probably a good deal regardless. But if they dont make the parts u have to go to a boat junk yard probably. I dont know anything about it if i buy it i definetly will be back on here with all the proper info. 200 is a good deal right? it is suppose to run but has just sit there for the last 5 years or more.
 

emckelvy

Commander
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
2,506
Re: reed valves

Re: reed valves

$200 is a smokin' hot deal for an intact, not-frozen 1500. The lower unit alone is worth more than that if you were to sell it on ebay. Not to mention the distributor, if it's an older model.

Like the O.P. said, reed valves are an unlikely diagnosis. There could be a myriad of other things, ignition to fuel, tuning/timing, etc, making the motor run rough.

When you get the motor, pull all the spark plugs and spray a light lubricant such as WD-40 in each spark plug hole. Turn the flywheel over by hand and see if you hear any nasty clanks or bangs.

Connect up the wiring harness, add a battery and do a compression check.

The safest way to do so is with the key off; run a jumper from the Pos batt terminal to the terminal on the starter solenoid with a yellow wire attached. This allows you to power-up the solenoid and will make the starter run without the ignition being energized.

If you use the ign key to crank over the motor, be sure to stick a spark plug back in every plug wire and solidly ground each plug against the block. You don't want any spark plug wire to fire without having a path to ground, it's bad for the ign.

Doing it this way is also a good way to check for spark while you're at it.

After you do a compression check you'll have a better idea of whether it's worth time and $$$ to do any more with the motor.

Next step after that would be to introduce fuel, water, and attempt to fire 'er off. That's of course assuming the carbs aren't a mass of 'goo' inside!

Here's a good 'sticky' from this site's "Engine FAQ" with info on 'waking up' a motor that's been 'sleeping' for some time:

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158086

There's a heck of a lot of good info in the FAQ directory, so you might want to spend a few minutes (or hours or days!) cruising thru all the collective knowledge and wisdom there.

HTH & let us know what you find.............ed
 
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