Removing Engine block studs

Purdy1

Recruit
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
3
I tried removing the studs out of the bottom of the block on my 1969 Merc 1000, i tried double nutting them but they wouldnt budge, are there any tips/tricks to removing these studs
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Re: Removing Engine block studs

Heat.
 

Reloder

Cadet
Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Messages
25
Re: Removing Engine block studs

Wow . . . I could've used one of those, probably more times than I can count.
 

cannonfodder

Seaman
Joined
Feb 27, 2002
Messages
58
Re: Removing Engine block studs

Weld a nut on the stud(usually already twisted off) weld the hole full and then after it has stopped glowing pour water on the nut.The stud will shrink and the block will still be warm. Hit nut with a hammer to jolt it loose judiciously. Don't break the block. Wiggle nut with wrench while squirting penetrant(Gibbs works great for me) on under nut. Use a nut 2 or 3 sizes bigger than the stud ( the weld won't stick to the aluminum anyway) May have to warm the boss the stud is in with a propane or map gas torch. Again carefully so as not to trash anything nearby.Very little movement at first but increasingly more so don't get impatient. Just did this with the water jacket bolts in my 4 hp. Cannon
 

sschefer

Rear Admiral
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Messages
4,530
Re: Removing Engine block studs

Two things, soak them with PB Blaster for a couple of days then use heat. You'll need to use either MAP gas or a oxy/acetylne and a rosebud tip. Propane won't do it.

Heat the block, not the bolt, you want the block metal to expand and release the bolt. If you want to get real professional you'll use a pure acetlyne flame to soot the aluminum first. Then heat the block and when the soot turns clear stop and remove the bolt.

As a side note, if this is a Salty dog then fusion between the bolt and the block has probably occured. That's not corrosion, its a physical bond nearly as strong as welding. It won't come loose like corrosion does.

If you think you're getting close to causing damage then stop and take it to a shop with a EDM (Electronic Drilling Machine). They can remove them completely and often save the threads. If the threads are trashed just install Heli-Coil, it'll be stronger than the orignals.
 

cannonfodder

Seaman
Joined
Feb 27, 2002
Messages
58
Re: Removing Engine block studs

He's talking about a Merc 1000(100 hp outboard) steel bolt and aluminum block although it weighs enough to be all cast iron. Not likely he wants to take it anywhere(Will need friends and a truck) and spend big money on a $500 engine.That was my situation with my 4 hp although I can carry it. Took the water jacket bolts out without removing the engine to clear a blockage in the internal passages.
 

sschefer

Rear Admiral
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Messages
4,530
Re: Removing Engine block studs

He's talking about a Merc 1000(100 hp outboard) steel bolt and aluminum block although it weighs enough to be all cast iron. Not likely he wants to take it anywhere(Will need friends and a truck) and spend big money on a $500 engine.That was my situation with my 4 hp although I can carry it. Took the water jacket bolts out without removing the engine to clear a blockage in the internal passages.

Where the heck did you get cast iron from ????
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,263
Re: Removing Engine block studs

Gee, I used a pipe wrench to turn them out. I didn't have any issues.
 

sschefer

Rear Admiral
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Messages
4,530
Re: Removing Engine block studs

Gee, I used a pipe wrench to turn them out. I didn't have any issues.

Just pulled a set out last night. Pipe wrench works, vice grips work, double nutting and a cheater work. Welding a nut on and a cheater works. Lot's of things work just never on the one you're currently working on.:D
 
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