Mercruiser 3.0 overheat -- help!

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BHA

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I have a 1992 Bayliner 1950 classic with Mercruiser 3.0 and an Alpha One.

Boat ran fine for an entire weekend.. no problem at all.
Next weekend, started up just fine and got me 3 miles out into the lake before I ran into a problem.

Glanced at the temp gauge and noticed it was at 210 degrees F. The temperature gauge shows 100 (low end), 180 (mid point) and 260 (high end). So I assumed the boat was running a little hot and ignored it (yes, I know.....)

About 5 mins later I noticed white smoke/steam/something coming out of the blower vent on the side of the boat. I always run the blower, so it was picking up something from the outside of the engine.

I should mention that when I noticed this, the temp gauge was 250 degrees F, but the boat was running fine at 4000 rpm. It was going slower than it normally would and seemed to be running noisier than usual (obviously!). Seemed to be laboring very hard.

As soon as I saw this, I dropped it back to idle. It stalled about 1 second later. Blower kept pushing out white smoke.

Pulled off the cover and noticed two things smoking. a)the rocker cover had a thin coating of oil/grease/usual engine gunk and that was burning off. b)the rubber coupler in the exhaust (just after the big exhaust elbow) was smoking. Obviously the engine was really really hot.

Let the boat cool (to 180 degrees) but it never restarted. Perhaps I flooded it (this engine is a bit hard to start warm), or maybe the head gasket and/or head are messed up (more likely I think)

It's at the marina now which is 1.5hrs away from my house, so I haven't been back to see if it starts once it has cooled completely.

Called my boat tech and he suspected the following. I should point out that he is picking up the boat later in the week and has NOT yet looked at it. But he has been servicing Bayliners for 20+ yrs.

1. Certain: Impeller failed. This seems quite obvious to me. We have really sandy and shallow water (2ft deep in places, with lots of sandbars!) and the impeller has not been replaced in the 4.5 years I have owned the boat (I know....). Not sure if the previous owner replaced it ever.. for all I know, it could be the original 18yr old impeller.

2. Possible: head gasket failed from overheat

3. Possible: head cracked

He is quoting me all kinds of crazy prices as he doesn't seem to want to do just #1 above. He said that even if he replaces the impeller, the head gasket and/or head will fail in 2 weeks and I'll be upset with him. I'm not sure I want to spend the approx $2.5k he wants to do #2 and #3... he quoted $1600 for a replacement cylinder head alone (his prices are WAY up there but he's good at what he does...)

So here is my plan of attack.. does this make sense?
1. Have him replace the impeller (entire housing actually, since I'm sure it's melted). I know it's pretty easy to do, but I haven't done one before and don't want to end up with water in the drive lube, etc. He can do it pretty quick and I don't mind paying him the $200 or so including labor.

2. Go pick up the boat and change the head gasket myself. I do my own car work, and although I haven't done a cylinder head, I understand they are very easy on the 3.0L mercruiser. Plan to purchase the head gasket "set" (includes rocker cover gasket, etc.) and buy the intake/exhaust manifold gasket (comes separately). Will also take my bottle of Permatex #2 gasket sealer. Apparently on this engine you don't disturb the timing or anything.. just need to remove the intake manifold, carb, disconnect fuel lines and sensors, remove coil/ignition wires, etc....

3. If the head has a crack, I'll order one of the Sierra replacements for ~$500 and install it rather than the original one.

4. Will replace the rubber exhaust coupler. I am sure it's fine, but it was smoking and my boat guy says they fail from the inside out. I think they're about $20 so why not.

I figure I have an afternoon worth of work and maybe $100 worth of parts.

Am I missing something here? Boat guy is looking for close to $3000 , and I figure I can pay him the $250 for impeller + buy $100 parts + an afternoon of labor.

For reference, I do my own car work. Have done brakes on Mercedes/BMW/various American cars, replaced fuel injection manifolds, some light exhaust/suspension work (hate doing this stuff so haven't done much), radiators, water pumps, etc.

From the SELOC manual I have, this doesn't look like a job that is beyond my abilities or anything.

Is this really only 2-3 hours worth of my time to get the boat running properly? Just want to make sure as the "other half" says 'just pay the man the 3k so we can have a running boat'. Yeah right.. he needs 3-4 weeks to fix it if it needs a head, so I'm not sure it's going to take me any longer than him :)
 

TiredoleBoy

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 overheat -- help!

I dunno, I would just do the impeller then see how it runs. Being from the auto industry, it is always the worst case scenario seen and the rush of bucks in your eyes.You do not and he does not know what really has fully failed. How can you really predict a blown head gasket in the future because of over heat?
 

BHA

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 overheat -- help!

Yeah, that's what I thought.

He started to get into the conversation about possibly claiming it on my marine insurance policy, so I think he's trying to turn a $300 job into a $3000 job knowing that some insurance company might pick up the tab.

He's usually a quite honest guy and knows his stuff, but I know when he sees bigger jobs like this he starts to see $ signs :)

I'm going to have him do the impeller and see what happens next.

If it runs after the impeller job, I'm launching the boat and using it for the rest of the summer. If somehow his crystal ball is right and my head gasket screws up later in the summer, I'll deal with it at that point. I'm pretty sure if the boat runs fine at 4000 RPM for a few mins, the chances of a head gasket blowing AFTER that are pretty slim.

If it doesn't run after the impeller job, I'm picking up the boat from his shop and will pull the head myself. Hopefully just a gasket, but I'm not opposed to buying a shiny new cylinder head for 500 bucks if I have to.

Thanks for your input.... let's hope for the best! (ie. impeller fixes the entire problem).
 

jasonhart

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 overheat -- help!

Should just buy the parts and replace the impeller pump yourself. It's really a piece of cake, especially on an alpha 1 gen 1. Was scared to do it myself at first...was easy, no special tools needed.
 

BHA

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 overheat -- help!

Good idea.. I was actually thinking of trying to do that myself too.

I would want to replace the entire water pump (not just the impeller) as I may have melted the housing and won't know till I have the whole thing apart. I figure it's safer to just replace the whole pump and be done with it.

I know I need:
-new pump
-2 qts drive lube

Do I need the gasket set that goes between the upper/lower parts of the drive? Since I'll be separating them, I don't want water to leak into the drive when I put it back together.. assume I need the gasket set.

What about the 2 alignment pins I see in my Mercruiser/Alpha service manual? It looks like they screw in, then pump slides onto them, then they are removed. Why can't I just put the pump on without the pins? Are they really needed?
 

antsmands

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 overheat -- help!

I bet you are gonna need a new head also but I would also do the pump 1st and see how it goes. I also have to redo my pump as general maintenance since I have no history on it. Got all the stuff just haven't done it yet so I can help you there. i did get the pins as suggested thought I know if really necessary until I get it apart. Please post back on you experience and GoooooooodddddddLuck!
 

DennisM

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 overheat -- help!

Just wanted to let you know, I have the same engine and drive, only in a 86 four winns 190.


I just did the impeller myself, was a little apprehensive at first, still a little worried but thats another thread.

It really is an easy fix. Just need a good 5/8 box wrench, a 5/8 socket, and a large hex key, dont remember the size off hand.

6 bolts total and lower end drops off. Simple from there.

When you get the impeller kit, get the upper and lower kit (about 45-50 bucks) comes with all the gaskets and rings you need, there is no seal between the upper and lower, just a small o-ring that sits on the oil port. VERY IMPORTANT to make sure you replace it.


Start with the impeller and see how it goes. The head may very well be cracked or a bad gasket now, but take it one step at a time.

Dont fear the impeller, with help from those here it was a piece of cake.
 

BHA

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 overheat -- help!

My boat guy hasn't looked at it yet, but he expects to within the next few days. I will definitely post my experience here, for future reference.

Thanks so far everyone for your help!

As far as needing a new head (or head gasket) vs. just doing the impeller, here is the boat guy's strategy he mentioned on the phone.

He said something about pulling the drive and running the boat on a garden hose. He specifically said he didn't mean "running it on earmuffs" so I think he's going to either pull the drive off, or at least separate the lower half of it.

His logic is the following: he can run the boat entirely on a garden hose, with the impeller/water pump completely out of the picture.

If it doesn't run, need a head gasket (or head). If it does run, a new impeller or water pump will solve the problem. He is giong to stop at that point and call me so I can decide.
 

BHA

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 overheat -- help!

Just out of interest, it seems from my research that ANY 3.0 head will fit my boat. I just want to make sure that I'm 100% correct in my assumption.

I don't have the boat here, so can't get the serial number right now, but here is what I have learned:

If I have a 3.0L, I have the 2.5 head
If I have a 3.0LX, I have the 3.0 head

So if I find ANY used head from a 3.0 Mercruiser, will it be guaranteed to fit my boat? Don't necessarily care that I'm replacing a 3.0 head with a 2.5 for example. But will it fit?

I have located a few "good used" heads quite reasonably priced. One came out of a 1991 Maxum 3.0L Mercruiser but that's all they know about the boat. They don't know if it was an L or an LX.

But from what I can tell, it will 100% fit my boat.

Is that a correct assumption??
 

BHA

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Sep 11, 2007
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Update

Update

UPDATE

Spoke to the boat guy and here's what he found:

1. All rubber near or attached to the exhaust is melted, which includes:
-Exhaust boot (outside the boat)
-Exhaust "coupler" (the rubber that connects the exhaust riser to the rest of the exhaust
-Trim hoses
-A few other o-rings and things

Apparently the trim hoses were near or touching the exhaust and I burned them up pretty good. He said there is oil in the bilge which is trim fluid that leaked out when the hoses went buh-bye.

So the repair is this:
Replace all rubber/plastic parts, hoses, impeller w/housing, etc. Fill with trim fluid, etc, etc.

2. Compression is low on one cylinder, and OK on the other three. He didn't mention the compression the good 3 cylinders, but the bad one is "only 130psi" (his words)

His view: change the head gasket (and look at the head for a leaky valve and/or possible warp in the head while it's off) as it's going to fail shortly anyway. Cost for head gasket/labour/head work&milling/etc is $1600

My view: 130 psi seems pretty darn good to me for an 18 year old engine! I say leave the thing as-is and I can change the head gasket in the fall (just for the heck of it)


Apparently I do NOT have incredibly low compression in one cylinder (isn't 130psi still pretty good? What is the spec for this engine?? I know the lowest is to be 70% or 75% of the highest, but don't know what the numbers should be)

So I'm planning the following:
-Have him do the 'rubber & plastic' work only. He says with that stuff done, the boat will run fine ("till the head gasket goes bang"). So that gets me through the summer
-I will order a head gasket and change it in the fall myself.

Any thoughts? How is the 130psi vs the others?
 

Don S

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 overheat -- help!

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