Urgent help need, merc 140 impeller..

DennisM

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
129
Ok so I got the impeller kit, got the lower drive off. Below is a pic of the old impeller, which doesnt look bad at all, but i was over heating bad..

Also the old impeller didnt have a o ring on the top of the shaft or the ring on top of the housing as I have seen in the videos of replacement. I have attached the second pic showing the two that came with the new kit, am I correct in assuming that the small o-ring goes in the slot below the teeth of the gear and the thick one right over the housing?

if so, would these two being missing from the old one cause it to run hot and not pump enough water?

Thanks in advance..

dennis
 

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Bondo

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Re: Urgent help need, merc 140 impeller..

am I correct in assuming that the small o-ring goes in the slot below the teeth of the gear and the thick one right over the housing?

if so, would these two being missing from the old one cause it to run hot and not pump enough water?

Ayuh,... You are correct,... No, they won't cause an overheat...
 

DennisM

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
129
Re: Urgent help need, merc 140 impeller..

Thank you Bond-o.

How does the old impeller look to you? bad enough to not pump right? Please? Pretty please? :)

also can you give me some direction on the steps to reinstall the lower end? I am trying to understand the steps below but kinda confused.

26)Line up the studs and lift gently, this is where the shifting shaft must be aligned.

27)As soon as the brass connector for the shift shaft reaches the splined shaft in the lower unit, use it as a tool.

28)Turn the shift shaft with brass piece clockwise and continue to apply pressure to the prop counter clockwise, when it stops it must be facing forward (towards the bow).

29)If the point of brass shift arm is not pointing forward, (when it turned), lift it and change its position on the splines. Repeat step #28.

30)At this point apply a greater force to the prop counter clockwise to turn drive shaft, as you lift the drive. Continue this until splines on drive line up and the lower unit seats into the upper drive unit.


This whole align, check, turn ccw, then align, turn cw, I am lost here, is this making it more difficult then it really is?
 

Bt Doctur

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Aug 29, 2004
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19,370
Re: Urgent help need, merc 140 impeller..

3 of the vanes are facing the wrong way.Also the brass center of the impeller may have become "un-bonded" so the brass turns but not the rubber. Those instructions are pretty precise to me. what takes place is you need the lower in fwd(turn splined shaft fully clockwise) and as you raise it you make sure the shoe is facing bow-to-stern when your done and the prop locks counterclockwise (gently turning the prop counterclockwise will turn the driveshaft to line the shaft up.This is also why you lubricate the impeller first.So the vanes dont reverse themselves
 

ziggy

Admiral
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Jun 30, 2004
Messages
7,473
Re: Urgent help need, merc 140 impeller..

+

ya can continue to leave the oring at the top off. all it does is cause grief during install. it also can become inadvertently under the seal that is in the upper. proof that ya can leave it off is that as mc-1 drive progressed through development, the r (revised), the mr (major revised) then on to the alpha1. at the mr point i believe the oring slot was eliminated on the drive shaft.

ya might look at the wear on your drive shaft too. from the very bottom seal in the upper. mine was looking like that on my last drive and i ended up speedi sleeveing it. i have a mild groove in my existing drive. i replaced the seal in the upper and dropped it off at a slightly different place. so far so good. i've been running no oring for the last two seasons, this is the third.

just R&R the impeller and be done with it.

agree with bd. the instructions are clear. do it one step at a time per the instructions. read ea. sentence. only thing i can add is that after the lower has been put in fwd. and the prop locks ccw. bungee cord it to keep it loaded so it stays in fwd. you move the prop cw at all and it'll slip out of fwd. be sure the helm is in fwd. don't forget the washer on top of the shift shaft.... fwiw... if it gives ya a bunch of grief putting the lower on the upper. it's much much easier to put the two halves together on the bench.. removing the drive (upper) forces you to do pm in that area too..
 

DennisM

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
129
Re: Urgent help need, merc 140 impeller..

Thanks guys, I pretty much got it after rereading it. BUT I get to tear it back down tomorrow and try again. Forgot to put in the bolt behind the water tube on the pump housing. :(

Also didnt lube the impeller first and didnt check to see if it was in forward, I stopped at getting ready to put in the lube, when I noticed that it was a clear yellow color instead of the blue that came out, then looked over and saw the missing bolt.

So tear it down and try it again. But no biggy, did the same thing first time replaced the stator on my zr580! First time is a dry run right?
 

DennisM

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
129
Re: Urgent help need, merc 140 impeller..

Ok, all set to reinstall now.

Got her torn back down, oiled the impeller a tad. Made sure ALL bolts are in place and O-rings.

Only question I have left, the lube gear oil i bought is type c, and is a light caramel in color. The oil that came out was blueish, so I am thinking it was the high performance.

Can I put the type c in it, and be ok, or do I need to go get two quarts of the High performance oil instead? I hope not since I already opened on quart of the new stuff so will be stuck with it..

Thanks again for all the help.. Next questions will be concerning the carb and how to tell what one is on it, so I can clean and rebuild it.
 
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