Chrysler 65 HP - help with shifting / engaging

[dalkir]

hi there,

I have a 1979 (or 1978) Chrysler 65 outboard. I had issues early this summer with the engine not engaging when snapping forward into gear. I had the boat at a local marina for repair...the mechanic simply reset the shifting cables to ensure stronger contact when shifting forward.

This worked well and was an improvement for a couple boating times, but now, when I go to shift forward, the engine revs high and will not engage forward. The engine jumps and bucks (extreme) attempting to engage forward however simply revs.

I also noticed that the propeller cone is no longer on the propeller. I'm not sure what the issue now is, prop or gears or something else that is making the gears not engage and move forward.

I really appreciate some advice and assistance on this.

Dale

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Chrysler 65 HP - help with shifting / engaging

Well, Dale: Unfortunately, you took it to the wrong mechanic. Adjusting the cables on these engines does very little to help shifting. The main adjustment is in the linkage inside the leg. From your description, it sounds like the engine is not fully engaging in forward and is popping out of gear. Continued use in that condition will wear the drive dogs and then lower unit repair will be necessary.

Assuming that the 79 will be a one piece lower unit

Here's what to do: At the bottom of the kingpin and transom mounts there will be a plate on each side of the engine leg held with two allen head cap screws. Remove these plates and you will see a square block holding the two 1/4 inch rods together using a pin and cotter. Remove the cotter and pin. Now, since down is forward, you want a little more throw in the down direction. So, unscrew the square block counterclockwise a bit. Since this changes the length of the linkage, it will change neutral and reverse also. Thus, you must try it a 1/2 turn at a time.

Do not go too far as this will put a load internally on the shift yoke. The object is to ensure that there is enough length to properly engage forward gear while not biasing so far that reverse will not engage. Also, internally, the threaded section is only about 1/2 inch long. Go too far and you will unscrew it from the mechanism. Really, only about 1-2 turns should get you correctly aligned. If that does not help, then the drive dogs ARE already worn and the lower unit must be disassembled to regrind and repair them.

Do not run the boat on the water with the plates removed as they hold the lower motor mounts; there is a chance of them popping out and we certainly don't want that.

You can buy a tailcone from franzmarine@aol.com but it will cost about 27 bucks and it is not necessary.

If, on the other hand, the engine seems to go into gear yet revs up and goes nowhere, then the prop is "spun." The rubber hub inside it is worn and must be replaced. To check this, remove the prop and mark the bronze insert and the prop itself then run it. If the two marks have moved, the hub is spun. If your prop has a black flare washer on it, then you can mark the prop and flare washer without removing the prop AS LONG AS the flare washer is still splined to the shaft.