Re: 1962 40hp sea king
Thank you so much for the information, I took boat into a local boat shop recently however they were not keen on working on it at all. They did not do original work, it was done about 4 years ago and we could never get the motor running. I will take you r information however and go to harbor freight and make purchase also and see if they can figure it out.
Engine is actually pretty clean. I will check it all out per your information and then get back with you! Thanks again for your help. Roz
Bear a few things in mind to keep it simple-----
Internal combustion engines need 3 things to work----
1. Compression---don't have definitive specs but I would anticipate that your OMC built Gale would require 80-85 PSI to start, run & idle well. A low compression engine will do none of the above well and my own shade-tree acid-test of condition and wear is how low and dependably an old engine will idle.
2. Fuel---in the right amount mixed with the right amount of air---at the right time. Dirty fuel systems are the bane of newbies to restoring old engines to service. It takes them a while to fully grasp that the old religious saying that "Cleanliness is next to Godliness" applies in spades to outboard fuel systems. Nothing brings the lesson home like doing a half-*****ed job over a few times! With a bit of luck and thought they also learn that a 'fuel system' extends from the vent hole in the gas cap to the reedplate that admits the charge into the crankcase. ALL of it must be inspected and cleaned----scrupulously!
3. Ignition----as with fuel, the right amount at the right time. The old magneto ignitions systems are so simple to understand and maintain that the advent of 'electronic ignition" I often suspect was simply a way of creating more service work for dealers. Except for the odd shade-tree electronics guru CDIs and their ilk are great mysteries requiring specialized tools and training to trouble-shoot and egregiously expensive 'black boxes' to repair. Any reasonably intelligent homeowner can bolt on new points, condenser and coils on his lawnmower and that's the extent of service required on outboard magneto systems too.
In addition to the neon test lamps one of the best things I use is another inexpensive test device from Horror Freight. It tests ignition under compression----the real acid-test. Others insist that if your mag will produce a blue-white spark across a 3/8" gap with an audible pop that you're good to go. Both methods have worked for me. Just remember----ALWAYS have the plug wires grounded when cranking the motor. The 'juice' the mag produces HAS to go somewhere and if it doesn't have a convenient source to complete the circuit it can short out across the primary & secondary windings in old coils and ruin them! It is even MORE critical with electronic ignition systems! HTH, Tom
