Hello,
Took our boat out last Friday, and about 5 minutes from the boat ramp the engine suddenly died. No warning whatsoever. We were tooling along at about 3/4 throttle, then suddenly we were going nowhere. I tried a restart, including with the spare gas tank...it would crank, but not fire.
I suspected no spark, which was confirmed when we got it home. No spark on any of the three plugs (this is a 1977 Evinrude 75hp outboard). I think that the problem is the power pack, but I need some information from people who know more than I do. Here's what you should know.
1) I've got good engine ground from the power pack, zero resistance between terminal 12 on the pack and the engine body.
2) IT'S NOT THE KILL SWITCH. I disconnected the black w/ yellow wire from the power pack, terminal 6 on the pack, and I still get no spark.
3) I'm pretty sure it's not the ignition coils. I don't have any spark for any of them, plus I checked the sensor coil resistance with my DVM and they're all at 8 ohms, within spec.
4) I'm pretty sure it's not the Charge Coil. I did a resistance check and it's a little bit low for spec at 450 ohms, but not too far off (spec is 555-705). Plus...
5) I'm pretty sure it's not the Stator. I cranked the engine with the stator leads disconnected from the power pack and connected to my meter (Fluke 89 IV DMM). There was a very high initial surge and then it was steady at 145 volts (measuring AC volts). From what I've read elsewhere online, that seems to be about right. Plus, nothing looks bad up there. I've read about leaking sludge, and broken magnets, but everything looks fine under the flywheel.
6) That leaves me with the Power Pack, where I think the problem is. I put the DMM on terminals 1, 2, and 3 of the pack (one at a time), with the ignition coil wires removed, and I got 45 volts there when the engine cranked (referenced to ground). I was measuring AC volts again, and here's my question. I can find no information anywhere telling me if 45 volts are good, or if that's too low. I'm working with a repair manual that tells me to use the S-80 or M80 neon testers, and I know that those are obsolete and everyone uses meters now. Trouble is, I don't know what the meter should tell me when testing the power pack. So I'm hoping someone here can enlighten me.
One other fact that might be relevant. Our battery is about seven years old and will only hold a charge for a couple of days...we haven't gotten around to replacing it yet. We take the boat out every weekend, so on Friday I put a charger on the battery so that it's charged up for our weekend. We've done that about four times. I know a low battery can cause no spark, but once it's charged up it's been starting the boat fine, and we usually stop and start the engine when we're out on the water - usually four or five times. So I don't think the battery itself caused the problem, but I'm wondering if the recharging might have shortened the power packs life some, if the pack is indeed the problem. Yes I know, I need to get a new battery and go from there (it's on the "immediate buy" list), but I'm still hoping to get an answer to my previous voltage question.
Thanks very much,
Chris
ps. Gotta love boaters. The first boat that passed by as we were paddling our runabout back to the boat launch gave us a tow in. Probably saved us about a half hour.
Took our boat out last Friday, and about 5 minutes from the boat ramp the engine suddenly died. No warning whatsoever. We were tooling along at about 3/4 throttle, then suddenly we were going nowhere. I tried a restart, including with the spare gas tank...it would crank, but not fire.
I suspected no spark, which was confirmed when we got it home. No spark on any of the three plugs (this is a 1977 Evinrude 75hp outboard). I think that the problem is the power pack, but I need some information from people who know more than I do. Here's what you should know.
1) I've got good engine ground from the power pack, zero resistance between terminal 12 on the pack and the engine body.
2) IT'S NOT THE KILL SWITCH. I disconnected the black w/ yellow wire from the power pack, terminal 6 on the pack, and I still get no spark.
3) I'm pretty sure it's not the ignition coils. I don't have any spark for any of them, plus I checked the sensor coil resistance with my DVM and they're all at 8 ohms, within spec.
4) I'm pretty sure it's not the Charge Coil. I did a resistance check and it's a little bit low for spec at 450 ohms, but not too far off (spec is 555-705). Plus...
5) I'm pretty sure it's not the Stator. I cranked the engine with the stator leads disconnected from the power pack and connected to my meter (Fluke 89 IV DMM). There was a very high initial surge and then it was steady at 145 volts (measuring AC volts). From what I've read elsewhere online, that seems to be about right. Plus, nothing looks bad up there. I've read about leaking sludge, and broken magnets, but everything looks fine under the flywheel.
6) That leaves me with the Power Pack, where I think the problem is. I put the DMM on terminals 1, 2, and 3 of the pack (one at a time), with the ignition coil wires removed, and I got 45 volts there when the engine cranked (referenced to ground). I was measuring AC volts again, and here's my question. I can find no information anywhere telling me if 45 volts are good, or if that's too low. I'm working with a repair manual that tells me to use the S-80 or M80 neon testers, and I know that those are obsolete and everyone uses meters now. Trouble is, I don't know what the meter should tell me when testing the power pack. So I'm hoping someone here can enlighten me.
One other fact that might be relevant. Our battery is about seven years old and will only hold a charge for a couple of days...we haven't gotten around to replacing it yet. We take the boat out every weekend, so on Friday I put a charger on the battery so that it's charged up for our weekend. We've done that about four times. I know a low battery can cause no spark, but once it's charged up it's been starting the boat fine, and we usually stop and start the engine when we're out on the water - usually four or five times. So I don't think the battery itself caused the problem, but I'm wondering if the recharging might have shortened the power packs life some, if the pack is indeed the problem. Yes I know, I need to get a new battery and go from there (it's on the "immediate buy" list), but I'm still hoping to get an answer to my previous voltage question.
Thanks very much,
Chris
ps. Gotta love boaters. The first boat that passed by as we were paddling our runabout back to the boat launch gave us a tow in. Probably saved us about a half hour.