1986 Four Winns Freedom 160 Restore need advice!!

[zool]

yes, you want the transom wood to sit flush with the outer skin, you need to keep the parallelism around the keyhole. You should measure its thickness now, including the outer and inner skin, and wood core...depending on the outdrive make you have, it can be critical...also get some measurements of where your motor mounts sit, so you can place them back where they were.


not sure what you mean by buckets.

 

[Lost in Translation]

No Title

Yes those are the measurements I can get seeing as that the only part not completely rotted out. As far as the buckets I meant the ones between the old stringers. Should I grind it down to the hull removing all the old glass tabbing or just grind it down nice and clean so new stuff sticks

 

[zool]

Its usually best to grind it all out, down to fresh glass, then raise the stringers about 1/4" and bed them in with thickened resin...if u leave the channels in, you may not get a good bond, and could face delamination after its all back together

 

[Lost in Translation]

Hey Zool,

Long weekend on the boat. I got the drive off and the engine out. Finished clearing the old transom out and did some grinding. Oh boy grinding is going to take so long. I don't know if I am going to clean it all out or just make sure the string lines are cleaned 10" on each side of them. Hardest part for me will be the front section as seen in the picture.

 

[Lost in Translation]

No Title

 

[Lost in Translation]

No Title

Hey Zool,

So I am at a crossroads on wood to use and my overall plans. You have helped a lot but I cannot locate plywood that looks good other then marine plywood at $88.00 a sheet. The other plywood that looked decent was oak hardwood plywood but I am not sure about using a hardwood. I feel like I am beating a dead horse but not sure what to use. Other then that I have figured out my dimensions and plan below. Any comments would be great!!

The Transom rough dimensions can be seen below. The main panel for the transom is ? in ply and the center measures 1 ? in thick. I will be sandwiching the two pieces together with resin or maybe a piece of fiberglass between them. I will be using a peanut butter consistency epoxy/filler to glue the transom down and do the seam. After that is complete I will be using 1708 Biaxial cloth around all the outside seams and then full layer over everything. Following that I plan on doing another layer across the seams. Is this enough?

The stringers are ? in thick and the dimensions can be seen below. Not sure if I should use 1/2 inch ply and lag them together and make them 1 inch total. I plan on bedding the stringers in with peanut butter consistency epoxy/filler glue and then using 1708 Biaxial cloth to extend 4 inches past the stringer bottom then another layer 6 inches past. Once this is done I plan on capping the stringers with 1708 Biaxial cloth. Does that sound good or need more?

For my decking I plan on using ? in plywood and will be using roughly 1 and half sheets. I plan on sealing the plywood with resin top and bottom and then once in going around the seams with 1708 biaxial cloth. Once this is done I was thinking of going over the whole deck with one coat of 1708 biaxial cloth. Is that too much?

All together I think I need roughly 6-8 sheets of plywood.

 

[zool]

Most Home Depots carry a BCX ply in 15/32 (1/2) and 19/32 (5/8) and 23/32 (3/4) it usually has 6 plys and exterior glue. I did my entire substructure with 23/32, some doubles up to 1 1/2". You can go wider that original, just shouldn't go narrower...the local lumber yard can most likely get you ABX or ACX at around $35 to $40 a sheet. Oak shouldn't be used, its probably not exterior grade.

Everything you plan sound fine, but I still don't recommend the 1708, but I do recommend 17 oz biaxial cloth, without the .08 mat backing, but if you are hell bent on using the stitchmat, it wont really hurt on ur boat, just cost a lot more in resin to wet it out.

You don't need glass between the layers of transom ply, just epoxy glue...you want to be careful as to not make it too wide.

 

[Lost in Translation]

Thanks Zool,

That helps a lot. As for the cloth I plan on using it without the mat as you suggested just kept referring to it as 1708 my bad.

I will take your advice on the wood but have to get through all this grinding first as I don't see the light at the end of that tunnel haha. I will update with more pictures when I get more done.

 

[Lost in Translation]

Hey Zool,

Did some research today and found a lumber yard that has marine plywood that he will sell me 3/4 for 75.00 a sheet and 1/2 for 60.00 a sheet. I am trying to decide if I should just bite the bullet and use it or go for the exterior plywood. Also did some more grinding. It is coming along but cant wait to finish this phase haha

I figure on the wood use 3/4 for my transom and deck and 1/2 in for my stringers lapped up to 1 in thick

 

[zool]

Cant go wrong with marine ply, and the price is fair for a local supply...grinding is the worst, but its all down hill from there

 

[Lost in Translation]

No Title



Grinding is coming along but this is surely a slow process. I have the last week of April off and my plan is to have this thing prepped and ready for glass by the beginning of May.

I have a couple of questions:

When grinding I noticed its hard to get a smooth flat surface should I not worry about that or get this done and level everything off at the end?

What do you use to get in the corners that the 4 1/2 in grinder wont fit?

MY GOAL BOAT IN THE WATER - JUNE!!!

 

[zool]

You don't have to grind out all the humps, but u do need to remove any old tabbing from the stringer channels, and as much gel coat as you can.

Use whatever you got to grind out the corners, I use an air die grinder with a course bit. A small wire brush or drill brush wheel, a plumbing tool that cleans inside copper, ect.

 

[Lost in Translation]

No Title

Started working on the teak on my boat. Here are some before and after pictures. I still need to add some Star Brite Teak oil to it.

 

[zool]

Looks like that teak will clean up nice, and the hull looks good too, you,re moving right along

Oxalic acid will clean up the ladder hinge area if its tough..

 

[Lost in Translation]

Hey Zool,

Ladder hinge was good and all my teak seems to look great now just waiting on the teak oil. I found some exterior Fur plywood I am going to use instead of marine seeing as it will save me $250.00. I have all next week off from work so I plan on putting a lot of hours in. I plan on finishing the grinding and getting all my wood cut.

I am going to buy all the products I need but I can seem to figure out how many yards of glass I need and resin. I was thinking 6 gallons should do it but I am not sure. Here are some pictures of my dimensions.

 

[rickryder]

Hi Lost,,, I will try to pop on now and then to check on your build... I am very busy at work so I don't get much time on here as I would like

 

[archbuilder]

Nice project Mr Lost. Zool does excellent epoxy work, your lucky to have him onboard!

On the glass, I look at the average height of the stringers, use that plus the tabbing for a width. Then multiply that by the total linear footage of all the stringers and bulk heads to give me how many square feet I need I tack 20% on to that number.

So if I have one layer in the schedule with 4" tabbing, and the average stringer / bulkhead height is 4", then I figure the width is about 12" or a 1' Then if there is a total of 100' of stringers I would order 100' sf plus another 20sf for slop and waste. Based on that number, I figure out how many linear yards of cloth I need (depends on the width). I more or less do the transom, deck etc, the same way and breaking down each part and layer. There is probally a better way to estimate it, but that usually gets me close.

I order resin based on the type of glass, using the square footage, There are some ratios for poly that I use, but I don't know what they are for epoxy. I bet Zool can get you headed in the right direction,

 

[zool]

Arch has a much more scientific method of estimating than me lol, I kinda just wing it...and im currently out of resin right now, waiting for more ...Epoxy doesn't have the shelf life problems od poly, so it wont hurt to overshoot, but it does crystalize when freezing, and my shop is unheated, so I just order more as needed.

If your using USC 635 thin laminating resin, they offer a 5 gallon kit that's cost effective, and a good starting point, then you can add a 1, 2, or another 5 kit if needed.

Cloth gets cheaper the more you buy, I start with 10 yards, the 1st price break, and go from there....

 

[NicoPags]

Awesome thread started. Wish I could come on down and help! Exterior Fir the next best thing to Marine Grade. The point is too use Fir. Cant waut to continue follwoing. Also, for the small areas that the grinder doesnt fit, I use a Dremel/Rotary tool. Worked great

 

[Lost in Translation]

Hey everyone got a lot done today. Swim teak is done and heres two pics. First one is after sanded and second one is after three coats of teak oil