Today I was checking the voltages on the ignition switch to see if it needed replacement (original). <br /><br />At the hot lead I got 12.7 volts At the Ignition lead I got 11.5 volts I checked at the + of the coil and was getting 11.5 volts as well, as expected. <br /><br />Thinking that this reading was not good I went out and got a new ignition switch and installed it. To my surprise the reading at the Ignition lead on the new switch was 11.5 volts, just like the old switch. <br /><br />Question 1: Is 11.5 volts at the ignition connector an acceptable reading? Or are both of my ignition switches bad (new and old)... <br /><br />Question 2: I started the engine with the new ignition switch and the starter continued to run, I did not notice right away until 15-20 seconds later and I turn off the key but the starter kept going... I then switched the battery selector switch to off. A few seconds later I switched the battery selector to '1' and the starter ingaged without turning the key to the start position... I then knew the starter solenoid was probably stuck due to a weak battery or bad slave solenoid (but the the slave solenoid is brand new). I took the new ignition switch out and put the old one back in and it did the same thing, when I turned the battery selector switch to '1' the engine started to crank. This kinda rules out that the ignition switch is the problem but it might not. The new switch is a Sierra unit and is rated 15amp and 30amps on the solenoid switch, are those ratings adequate?<br /><br />Question 3: Could it be the starter? The condition is unknown to me since I got the boat used. <br /><br />I reinstalled the old ignition switch and a backup solenoid and the engine started and ran fine.
