I'm gonna find out. I found one on EBay last fall and will install it when the weather is warmer. <br /><br />Boomyal says they're great.<br /><br />BTW, sorry I didn't respond to your email. i read it late one night and was going to respond the next day, but it got deleted accidentally. Sorry bro.
rojoc, <br /><br />What we are discussing is an adapter plate OMC designed for their "Stringer" outdrive series that allows you to hook a garden hose direct to the unit and avoid the muffs.<br /><br />I don't know if such a unit exists for any other drive types.
KAGEE :Thats ok.That table I was telling you about I built when I was doing alot of welding.It wiil hold <br />a complete engine easy. If you or anyone you know wants it,its theres. The size is about 4' by 4'.<br />As for the flushing unit I think Im getting one.<br />Later The Beef
I have one of the OMC flush adapters on my stringer. It works great but I really see no difference if you use muffs. The adapter mounts on the starboard side cap over the pivot pin. <br /><br />The cap has a male hose fitting so you need a female to female swivel hose adapter to hook the end of the hose to the adapter. Turn the water on and start engine. Has two small advantages over muffs. <br /><br />1: You can not forget to bring it with you as it attached to the outdrive. <br /><br />2: It will not fall off.<br /><br />Also has a small disadvantage. The adapter is a male fitting and has a Female cap hanging from a chain that need to be screw on to close the hole. If you forget to screw it on then water from the water pump runs out the hole and the motor will overheat at slow speeds, at least mine does. At high speed my Outdrive water pump put out enough water that engine still get plenty of cooling water. If you have a weak pump it could over heat at high speed also. So as soon as you take the female to female adapter off screw on the female cap to close the hole. I left mine off twice. First time took a while to figure out what was going on while heading out to sea. Getting ready to turn back when saw the water running out the adapter. At least on my boat if the swells are not too big you can put in on while on the water. Long reach but just about the water line so between swells can put it on.<br /><br />On My boat I use a Y hose adapter with a shutoff on each outlet. One outlet I use the female to female swivel hose adapter and hook the lower output to the flush cap. The other outlet has a 2 foot hose hooked to my muffs for my kicker motor. This way can flush both motors at the same time. I also use another Y hose adapter at the water supply and hook my wash hose to that up there. So I can flush both motors and wash the boat at the same time. This allow me to flush both motors longer and wash the boat and gear and still take less time at the wash station than anyone useing a single hose to flush each motor and wash the boat and gear. Not sure that was a sentence but hope you get the point.
On 80-ish intermediate housings,(early models did not have it) there are two port holes about 3/16 diameter, one on each side of the ball gear aimed inward towards the gear. A stream of water should shoot out each hole while running. It serves to cool and provide lubication to the meshed gears. As a side benefit, a good steady stream serves as an indicater that the lower water pump in the drive is functioning properly.
a little tin deflector aims the water into the ball gears- remember to look at it if your outdrive ever seems noisy- I almost pulled my drive off, then I noticed the tin hitting the ball gears... bent it back and all fine
My 1980 140HP only has one hole on the starboard side that water shoots out of toward the ball gears. The Port side has no pressure only exhaust water flow down and out the water outlet holes or prop.