Oh Crap, my transom

[supertech1979]

Hey Guys,

Been reading a lot from this board over the years and it has a great deal of knowledge, so thanks for that.

I purchased a used 2002 198 Hurricane fun deck without a motor for $800, exterior was in rough shape but for my purposes it would be fine. I already had a 2 stroke Yamaha 115 to mount on it. I had a shop mount the controls for me and cables were already there. I brought it home and was going to mount the motor last night, cables and control connections went flawlessly but the mounting bracket didn’t want to hook on the transom on the right side. I wrestled with it until I thought I was doing more harm than good. Took it back off and removed the top aluminum plate on the transom to inspect for damage. Now I think there were transom issues before I bought it, maybe rot. I’ll post pics, let me know your thoughts.

nathan

 

[supertech1979]

[No message]

 

[supertech1979]

[No message]

 

[Scott Danforth]

welcome to the restoration group.

you need a transom and probably stringers.

plan on spending about $3k on your $800 boat to take care of the transom and stringers

 

[briangcc]

Going to be adding to your PPE vocabulary - respirator, face shield, tyvek suit, etc.

Who put all the goop around the control cable boot? Was that the shop that mounted your controls? Or was it there by previous owner??

In any event I concur with Scott, transom, more than likely stringers, and by default the floor as its got to get out of the way so you can replace all the other more than likely rotten stuff.

 

[supertech1979]

Must have been previous owner, not the shop that installed controls or I would have fired them, lol.

 

[supertech1979]

Hey Scott, how much if I did it myself? $1500 in materials? Is it worth it since I got the boat cheap or should I just consider it a loss and junk boat and sell the trailer?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Hey Scott, how much if I did it myself? $1500 in materials? Is it worth it since I got the boat cheap or should I just consider it a loss and junk boat and sell the trailer?

no, the $3k was if you do the work yourself. if you are handy and have all the tools and PPE, you can be in the $2k range

you will need the following:
about $300 worth of incidentals
about $300 worth of plywood
about $200 worth of glue and sealant
about $20 worth of stainless hardware
about $400 worth of fiberglass cloth
and about $800 worth of resin/gel/etc.

and if you have to ship, about $200 in environmental shipping fees

up to you if you fix it or scrap it.

to hire the work out, expect to pay $7-10k

consider any fiberglass boat under $5k a project boat.

 

[gm280]

Why do I get the feeling you already figured it needed a new transom. The pictures tell everything. If you really want to keep your engine, don't try to install it on that transom and go boating. It will leave the transom in short order and go swimming all buy itself.

Since you stated you've read a lot of project boat threads on this iboat site, you know you are either going to have to rebuild the rotted issues or dump it and find something else. But understand anything in the $800 dollar range or even twice that amount will have issues. Near about a guarantee...

 

[tpenfield]

I'm aboard for this . . .

 

[Tassie 1]

As well as the cost of materials, time researching methods of fixing this/that and running around buying in all the stuff you need and then the actual time working on the boat,

You have to be realistic about the amount of free time you have available to work on the boat,

Full time job, maybe office hours ( little time after work, )
Full time ' needy ' family. ( we' ve all got ' em )
Other hobbies/ sports interests/ kids footy/cricket /blah blah etc etc
Mates who want to go out on the town friday nights...which turn into sleepy saturdays
It rains/ too hot/ too cold etc etc

I found on different project boats l would be very, very lucky if l averaged one day a week and maybe a few hours during the day ( a shift worker att ) due to all of the above, at various times,

 

[supertech1979]

As well as the cost of materials, time researching methods of fixing this/that and running around buying in all the stuff you need and then the actual time working on the boat,

You have to be realistic about the amount of free time you have available to work on the boat,

Full time job, maybe office hours ( little time after work, )
Full time ' needy ' family. ( we' ve all got ' em )
Other hobbies/ sports interests/ kids footy/cricket /blah blah etc etc
Mates who want to go out on the town friday nights...which turn into sleepy saturdays
It rains/ too hot/ too cold etc etc

I found on different project boats l would be very, very lucky if l averaged one day a week and maybe a few hours during the day ( a shift worker att ) due to all of the above, at various times,

Yeah that’s where I struggle. I start a new, more demanding job Monday. Not terribly demanding but 12-16 hr days pretty often the first year and if it goes well then I will get more responsibility then come more late days, lol.

 

[kcassells]

Good for the new "Demanding Job" Yiu will need the boat demo/repair to vent frustrations. BTW...guys just "DO IT." All the time. We are here to get you thru this.
Another note is the next boat buy as you run away from this is its more than likely to have the same or more problems.
Believe me you!
Also it'll end up costing you less than Scott said, the boat will be better than factory.

 

[supertech1979]

no, the $3k was if you do the work yourself. if you are handy and have all the tools and PPE, you can be in the $2k range

you will need the following:
about $300 worth of incidentals
about $300 worth of plywood
about $200 worth of glue and sealant
about $20 worth of stainless hardware
about $400 worth of fiberglass cloth
and about $800 worth of resin/gel/etc.

and if you have to ship, about $200 in environmental shipping fees

up to you if you fix it or scrap it.

to hire the work out, expect to pay $7-10k

consider any fiberglass boat under $5k a project boat.

I tried to get to the stringers with a screw driver and what little I could reach were solid but couldn’t reach 90%. I think I’ll cut the transom out and that will give me access to the end of the stringers and at least I could evaluate the back ends of them. If they are rotten then trash boat. If they are solid then continue evaluation and remove the cap. Best case, if by miracle, it’s only the transom, how much do you think I’m into it for? It’s Probably a stupid question but I’m new so I don’t know, what I don’t know. Thanks in advance.

 

[kcassells]

Scotts close as usual but it's a time thing. Meaning you do it when you feel like it and it gets done to your satisfaction. Spread that over 6 mos. ya see and its not so daunting.

 

[kcassells]

Scotts close as usual but it's a time thing. Meaning you do it when you feel like it and it gets done to your satisfaction. Spread that over 6 mos.or longer. Ya see and its not so daunting.
If ya want a boat today plan on alot more $$ and still no gaurantee.

 

[supertech1979]

So I’m guessing I’ll have to remove the cap to evaluate the stringers properly, is that accurate to say? After thinking about it more, even with the plywood transom removed I will still have the fiberglass on the inside that will block the stringers fro
view, right?.

 

[kcassells]

You can go that route. Probably the best way.
On the other hand you could cut out a good swath of floor and see what you have under there.
I know when I did mine I started pc by pc and kept saying it got to get better.....it didn't. active build.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...rtcraft-222-1983-deep-v-hull-cuddy-walkaround

 

[supertech1979]

I appreciate the encouragement from this board , I have several honey dew projects past expected completion date, lol like all of them all the time, so I’m going to get a few of them done while I get comfortable in my new job then come back in the fall and decide if this is something I want to do. If I do then I will crank this thread back up with an exorbitant amount of questions and pictures. Thanks to all y’all.

Nathan

 

[Scott Danforth]

It never just the transom

Remove cap, cut out floor and take a good look at the stringers and foam

Using a screw driver wont cut it, you need to have a 5/16" drill and make a hole, then unspact the shavings, if the wood shavings are dry, light colored and smell like fresh cut wood, then epoxy the hole and move on to the next issue

If the shavings come out dark, wet and smell of rotten mulch......... Then fire up the saws and get busy.

60% of the job is the transom, another 20% for stringers and the remainder 20% is putting it all back