Wont start when cold only

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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954
I have a 6 H.P. Evinrude Model E6REI 1991 motor. I rebuilt the carb earlier this season and everything is super accept the fact that I have a lot of trouble starting the thing when it is cold. I don't mean cold outside, I mean even when it's 90 degrees and the motor has not been started for awhile, it will not start up at that point. Once the motor is running, I can close the choke almost instantly on a warm day and it runs and starts up the rest of the day, unless it is off for about an hour or more, then it is back to not starting.

I have a great spark that is jumping a 3/8" gap. Plugs are gapped at .030 exactly. Bulb gets hard on fuel line and bowl is full of fuel after I pump the ball up. My compression is 90 on the bottom cyl. & 92 on the top one. The motor runs like new once I get it started. If I put just a smidge of starting fluid into the hole in the front of the airbox (the hole lines up with the carb throat) it starts with 1/2 of pull. The starting fluid that I have been using has a top cyl. lube in it. I mean the amount of fluid that I squirt into the airbox is a nano of a split second.

I have good compression, a good spark and the motor trolls all day long without a spit, cough or a sneeze if I want to troll that long. After the motor is warm, just a short partial pull on the starting cord gets it going. I could probably start the motor by spinning the flywheel by hand. (Had an old Chrysler 8 H.P. that I could do that to) never tried it on this one, but I bet it could be done. What could be my problem?
 

Zack19919853

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Aug 17, 2019
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Maybe fuel restriction..? Might try breaking the carburetor down again and cleaning the idle jets and all orifices. I battled this for awhile. A dirty carb will cause you a lot of confusion and headache. You basically have to go over the carburetor will a fine tooth comb! Or your idle mixture screw could be off a hair.. you try turning it a hair at a time the smaller motors are a bit more sensitive I have noticed
 

oldboat1

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Set the air mix needle on the carb top slightly richer (c.clockwise).
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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Zack, I rebuilt the carb and soaked it for a long time in some carb cleaning solvent. I am sure everything is clean in the carb. It runs sooooo good once it starts.

Oldboat, I was thinking it was the air mix needle. I turned it counterclockwise the other day about 1/4 turn, but it really did nothing to change the situation. I will turn it out another 1/8 or 1/4 turn again when i get out to the lake again & see if that does anything. When I turn it counter clockwise, you say that is giving it more fuel?

Thanks guys.

Note: Also, as long as I just give it a little "psst" of the starting fluid with lubrication in it, that should not hurt the motor correct?? It's a PITA to remove the cover & do that, but once I take the two or three minutes to do that, I am good for the day, but i would like to just start the motor the normal one or two pulls without removing the cover.
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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Oldboat, Do you think it could be the opposite of me having to run it richer? In other words, is it possible I am flooding the motor trying to start it without the starting fluid or when I squeeze the bulb on the fuel line (maybe too hard?) and I just may have to turn that fuel/air mix screw in to run it leaner to start it when cold? If it is flooding for me, then I squirt a tad of starting fluid, maybe the spark is still good for the fluid but too wet with gas without the fluid sprayed??
 

oldboat1

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If starting is successful with choking/priming, you would want to enrich the air mix (more fuel -- c.clockwise). You might want to set the needle to the specified initial setting, and start over (check your manual, but probably 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated for your '91.) The carb top and the needle should have been removed for soaking -- and would want to be sure every small opening under the top is clear.
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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954
If starting is successful with choking/priming, you would want to enrich the air mix (more fuel -- c.clockwise). You might want to set the needle to the specified initial setting, and start over (check your manual, but probably 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated for your '91.) The carb top and the needle should have been removed for soaking -- and would want to be sure every small opening under the top is clear.

I took everything off /out of that carb when I rebuilt it this spring. I could not get that thing any cleaner than what i got it. My manual states to start that screw out 2& 1/2 turns out after lightly seating it. I think I only started it at 1-1/2 turns out. (did not look it up when I was doing it. Just looked it up now). I will start at what the manual says and go from there. I do think that is my only problem now, as I said , that carb could not be any cleaner even if it were brand new.
 

oldboat1

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The initial setting per your manual might be the key. Tweak it from there if needed. (I usually find a little leaner is better for overall running, but on a couple of my older 9.9s I sometimes need to set it a little richer for cold starting, then return it to my former setting.) Of course those motors have an access knob right up front! Sounds like you are close.
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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Yep, I think I will get it to start once i regulate that air/fuel mixture correctly. I will try it out the next time I go to the lake in a few days. I will not waste time doing it in the driveway, because I know better. You have to be on the lake, warmed up motor and low idle when tweaking that screw. Thanks again!
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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That motor in good condition should start right up with the correct procedure.----So outline the steps you take when starting it cold.---Step by step.
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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954
That motor in good condition should start right up with the correct procedure.----So outline the steps you take when starting it cold.---Step by step.

1) Close the choke
2) Open throttle 100% then close it to the start position on the handle (I tried it more than the start position at times too)
3) Pull the rope 2-4 times
4) Open the choke (so I do not flood the thing)
5) Pull the rope 6-7 more times
6) Remove the motor cover
7) Give it a nano second of starting fluid (with lube in it)
8) Pull the rope about a half of pull
9) Motor starts
10) Put cover back on and I'm good to go the rest of the day
 

racerone

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Your choke is not working.------You pull with choke on till it at least barks / fires for you.----Opening choke BEFORE it fires may be a mistake..--------No point in opening throttle 100% before setting it to start.---Waste of time / effort.----Select a throttle setting that opens the throttle plate just a wee bit.----Make sure you have spark that jumps a gap of 3/8" or more with a " snap " you can hear.
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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Racer one, thanks for the suggestion. I will try it. You said the choke is not working. How could the choke fail? I will keep it on longer, until it tries to fire. I was worried about flooding it. The spark is great on my motor. It is jumping a 3/8" gap. I have a glass spark tester that I test it with. I can see a good spark & I can hear it snap if I listen closely. (hard to do when I am pulling the rope trying to see the spark at the same time). Would be easier if I wait 'til one of my kids or grand kids come around. Also, I am going to start over setting the air/fuel mix. I only started it with 1-1/2 turns out. I read in my service manual now that the initial setting is 2-1/2 turns out. I have no idea where it is now until I turn it back in to reset it to what the manual says.
 

Zack19919853

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Aug 17, 2019
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If worried about flooding just remove spark plug if it’s soaking wet, dry it will towel. Then pull start with spark plug out and let the gas spray out then reverse procedure. Worst case scenario.. but it’ll try to bust off before flooding for sure! When it does take it off choke as someone above as mentioned. Starter fluids not great for a 2 stroke as the Oil in mixed gas is what lubricates the pistons and all that good stuff. But it start it I think it’ll be ok..lot of knowledgeable guys in these forms! They’ll steer you in the correct direction.
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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954
O.K. Guys, thanks for all of your help and input. The problem is now solved. I put the motor in a large tub of water, adjusted the fuel/air mix according to my manual (2-1/2 turns out instead of the 1-1/2 turns that I had it set at originally) and the motor started on the second pull. That was yesterday evening. When I turned it in last night to see where it was set at originally, the screw was only out about 1-1/8 turn out (after tweaking it from the prior original 1-1/2 turns out). I went back outside today and it started on the very first pull. Now I will tweak it on the lake like it should be done when I am out there probably tomorrow, but I think it will be just fine now as it idled really great in my driveway.
Thanks!
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
Messages
954
If worried about flooding just remove spark plug if it’s soaking wet, dry it will towel. Then pull start with spark plug out and let the gas spray out then reverse procedure. Worst case scenario.. but it’ll try to bust off before flooding for sure! When it does take it off choke as someone above as mentioned. Starter fluids not great for a 2 stroke as the Oil in mixed gas is what lubricates the pistons and all that good stuff. But it start it I think it’ll be ok..lot of knowledgeable guys in these forms! They’ll steer you in the correct direction.

Zack, The starting fluid that I purchased has a cylinder lubrication in it, so I think it would be just about the same as the gas with oil in it for the very small amount that I was using. I would not use it without the lubrication in it. Anyway, I think I solved the problem now. Thanks for all of your input. I appreciate it! Also when it does flood (rare occasion in the past) I remove the gas line from the motor as well and pull the cord a few times and gas comes out of the connection at the motor pretty much, then remove the plugs and pull the cord some more like you suggested.
 
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