Running EVERYTHING on new aluminum boat

[swimmin' for shore]

The boat's only new to me, first of all. It's further from "new" than any boat I've ever owned. It's looking to be my favorite, though. <br /><br />This is a 1958 Lonestar aluminum runabout. 16' long. Outboard boat that I'm at least planning to use a 3 cyl. older evinrude 60 hp motor on(this came with the boat, but the status remains unknown for now).<br /><br />I'm going to run 2 batteries, which I'll probably run from the stern. The gas tank will be in the bow, under the bench seat up there. It's an 18 gallon metal tank(tempo). It has a ground setup, and I know that it must be grounded.<br />In addition to the batteries, I'll be wiring everything in this boat. It's totally empty right now, and in the middle of a complete rebuild. I built a center console for the boat. I've cut holes in it for gauges which I purchased already. They are tach, speed, fuel, and battery gauges. I'll have a switch panel made with the following switches: Running light, Anchor light, interior(deck) lights, overhead console light, search light(on top of the new T-top), bilge pump, and whatever else comes to mind before it's finished. <br />I'm new to wiring-Completely new. I'd like to get some help to ensure that I get everything hooked up correctly. Work on the boat is on and off for the next little bit, so I'll probably update this same post with future questions. <br />First question: Where, how, why, etc...do I ground...oh, and what do I ground? LOL. 2 batteries go in....then what happens? Lead me by the hand. I'd rather be laughed at and safe than proud and..."swimmin".

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Running EVERYTHING on new aluminum boat

You first need to head to the library or on-line to find a handbook for low voltage wiring. That said, as you think about the wiring, draw it out on paper. Think about electricity as water running through a pipe. Current flows from the POS terminal on the battery, through a master circuit breaker or main fuse (20A) to a fuse panel through (in your case) probably a 12 gauge wire. At the fuse panel, that 12V then splits and goes to all of the individual fuses. The POS feed for each of your accessories or lights then passes from its designated fuse either directly to the accessory, or if there is a switch involved, to the switch, then from the switch to the device such as a light. Marine fuse panels have whats called a ground buss which is a brass/copper bar with a bunch of screws in it. All of the grounds from your accessories connect here. There should be no switches in the ground side of a device. The buss bar is then connected by another 12 ga wire to the NEG terminal on the battery. Your engine wiring should have the tach sense wire in it. It would connect to the SENSE terminal on the tack. Speedo only has a light. Fuel gauge, volt meter, and tach need switched 12V (from ignitiion key). Have fun. Have someone with electrical experience (lots of it) guide you. But plan, plan, and then plan some more.

 

[crab bait]

Re: Running EVERYTHING on new aluminum boat

alot to learn.. <br /><br />why 2 batteries..?? one motor,, one acessory..??<br /><br />take 2 # 8 gauge or bigger .. NO SMALLER.. one black or red ( pos ) one white or green ( neg ) to the console fuse panel.. this is the main feed for everything.. <br /> <br />at the battery install an in-line breaker.. avail at any marine store.. <br /><br />40 amp for 8 ga wire<br />50/60 amp for 6 ga<br /><br /><br />if the panel doesn't have a ground buss or is to small,, radio shack sells them.. <br /><br />run your neg from battery to this buss bar .. an then ALL other grounds in the boat gets terminated here at this buss bar..<br /><br />should use all marine grade (tinned ) wire..

 

[18rabbit]

Re: Running EVERYTHING on new aluminum boat

Hey Swimmin' - Looks like you got some excellent advice from UpInSmoke. Did he mention “plan”, as in plan, plan, and plan some more? Do it on paper, take your time, then the execution will be much simpler.<br /><br />If you are tight for space, you may opt for a circuit breaker panel instead of a fuse panel. The breakers are used as on/off switches so you don’t make space for switch, too. I prefer double pole breakers because they allow me to isolate anything/everything electrical but it’s not necessary. You can go with less expensive single pole breakers (on the [+] line as UpInSmoke said). They even look like on/off switches. Here’s an example:<br /><br /> http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?Product_Id=130899&d_Id=7496&l1=7460&l2=7990 <br /><br />They come in just about any/every configuration, with and without volt and amp meters.<br /><br /><br />Btw, an excellent all-around boat electric book is 'Powerboater's Guide To Electrical Systems' by Ed Sherman. They have it here on iboats in the MegaMall. Also, some of the best prices I have found on circuit breakers is also here in the MegaMall.<br /><br />EDIT: ok, Crab Bait has excellent advice, too.<br />

 

[Richard Petersen]

Re: Running EVERYTHING on new aluminum boat

www.uscgboating.org--------- then the electrical section----------then the table of contents-------------then the wiring diagrams -------then the inboard/ outboard group. The total electrical section will answer any thoughts that pop up

 

[swimmin' for shore]

Re: Running EVERYTHING on new aluminum boat

Hey. Thanks to everyone thus far for your help. I'm going to...well, start by planning this out. I have 3 weeks here now that I won't be working on the boat(going to sea on another boat), so I have some time. <br />Rabbit, thanks for the advice on the book. I have that one, so I guess that I'll bring it to sea with me. The planning on this is a little more complex than painting and such, so it's a bit of a daunting task. I'll get her. By the way, Rabbit, what's the fishing like down there. I'm coming to your area in a few weeks, for 2 or 3 days. I'm going to find me a fishing trip while I'm down. This is the last trip to sea for me, so I'm going to at least try to take advantage of the opportunity, and I haven't been to SF before. Should be fun. <br />Thanks again, guys. When I get a plan drawn out, I'll load it to my shareaproject site and submit it for your cuts and/or approval. James