72 Evinrude 6 Questions

Riehle

Cadet
Joined
Oct 18, 2003
Messages
8
I'm brand new here...in fact, I'm a first time boat owner, 14' Alumacraft w/Evvie Fisherman 6. Trying to learn as I go. Forgive my ignorance. I see that there are some knowledgeable guys here, so I have a couple questions;<br /><br />The engine is newly "reconditioned", really clean, new components throughout, though I'm not sure what might've been neglected, if anything. The first time out the motor ran perfectly for over five hours. It didn't start on the first pull, but once started it ran all day. The second time out, it took several more pulls to start, and after a half hour run it quit, and God nor money would start it again. I pulled out the manual and ran through all the remedies suggested, but no fire...and my fingers are all blistered from yankin' the crap outta the pull starter.<br /><br />Any ideas as to what can go so terminally wrong? I checked everything that I could without tearing the whole assembly apart (I was in the middle of a lake), and "found" nothing out of the ordinary...<br /><br />Another question; Is there a converter kit to install an electric starter in these smaller, older engines? My Dad wants to borrow the boat, but at 74 he just doesn't have the stamina for an engine that demands at least 6 pulls...<br /><br />I appreciate any help you guys can give...
 

dex007

Recruit
Joined
Oct 18, 2003
Messages
1
Re: 72 Evinrude 6 Questions

First thing I would do is have the compression and spark checked to see if your "reconditioned" engine is truly that. Comp should be above 100 lbs per cyl with 10% variance allowed between cyls EI: 100/105 is acceptable. Low compression will make it hard to start. Also there is the chance that the carb is dirty (gummed)if it has sat for a while before you started using it. The biggest prob though with the older engines is the reeds behind the intake tend to get weak and this also makes for hard starting as you have decreased primary compression. This can usually be remedied by flipping the reeds but is not a job for n00bs ;-). Also points and condenser ignition tends to weaken over time due to wear on the cam follower of the points, which makes the point gap smaller and throws the timing off slightly. This should also be checked. All in all this engine is a very reliable unit when propper maintainance has been followed. If you can find a tech that knows his stuff, and are willing to pay a couple hundred bucks for a GOOD tune-up, this engine should outlast the boat its on ;P. Also as far as I rem there isn't an electric start for that engine. Though in top shape it should start on the second pull.<br /><br />dex007 OMC M/T
 

Riehle

Cadet
Joined
Oct 18, 2003
Messages
8
Re: 72 Evinrude 6 Questions

Thanks dex, your info should prove more than helpful. The carb is brand new, as is the fuel filter, plugs, all the fuel lines, etc. I don't know if they re-ringed the pistons (do these pistons have rings? I also fly radio-control aircraft and several of those engines have no rings, but baffles on the piston cap to route combustion/exhaust) or rebored the cylinders...The motor ran so well just last week that it really throws me as to why it won't run now.<br /><br />I am using a 32:1 mix on the fuel, even though the manual sez that 50:1 is optimal. The previous owner told me that it ran fine at 32:1, so who was I to argue? The octane is 92. Leaded gas is about impossible to get up here, as everywhere.<br /><br />There are as many marine mechs around here as auto mechs, so I'll have to ask around to find a good one.<br /><br />I'll be checking the points, etc. shortly...
 

Riehle

Cadet
Joined
Oct 18, 2003
Messages
8
Re: 72 Evinrude 6 Questions

A little more info;<br />Compression in both cylinders is right at 145 lbs.<br /><br />Spark is good.<br /><br />The engine will fire and run when fuel is injected directly into the carb throat, but there is some kind of restriction at the fuel nipple intake. I pulled the line from the filter end and can niether blow nor draw air through it. I don't know if this is supposed to happen, though I assume that fuel should be able to flow freely into the carb. <br /><br />Is there an interior filter that can clog? Can the float saturate and restrict flow? (I'd assume the opposite; if the float saturated I'd have a flooding problem, right?)<br /><br />The motor is fuel starved. Even though new, is pulling the carb the next step? (like I stated in my first post, excuse my ignorance, but I don't want to make things worse...)
 

Xcusme

Commander
Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
2,888
Re: 72 Evinrude 6 Questions

Eric,<br /><br />From what you're describing, the carb float is high and stopping the fuel from entering the carb, and that's the way it should work (if the line is going to the carb). If the float didn't stop the flow of fuel into the carb, you'd soon have a flooded condition. If the float itself is not dropping down as the fuel level in the carb bowl drops, the bowl will empty and cause a fuel starvation situation. Since you can spray fuel into the carb throat and the motor starts indicates, as you already know, a fuel starvation condition. There's no internal filter inside of the carb. <br /><br />If you can pump the primer bulb until firm and the motor will start , and continues to run, look at the fuel lines for a fuel leak, defective fuel pump, or an air leak in the fuel lines back to the tank.<br /><br />Pull the fuel line from the input of the carb, place fuel line in a small container. Pump the primer bulb and verify fuel is getting to the carb. Next , pull the starter rope a couple of times, you should see the fuel pump action by observing a pulsating squirting of fuel into the container. You now have verified that the carb is the problem. Pull the carb, remove bottom bowl and invert carb. Float should be level with the gasket surface. Bend the small float 'stop' to adjust if not level with carb body. Verify that the float needle valve is opening and closing as the float rises and falls. Spray carb cleaner into all passageways and blow out with compresses air. Remove the mixture screws, spray with carb cleaner and again blow out with compressed air. re-assemble carb.<br /><br />set mixture screws as applicable per destructions :D below.<br /><br />-----------------------------------<br />Depending on which carb you have, pick one of the following.<br /><br />(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)<br /><br />Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.<br /><br />Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8<br />turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to<br />respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to<br />where the engine will just stay running.<br /><br />Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back<br />(sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4<br />turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.<br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move<br />them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you<br />would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.<br />--------------------------------------------------<br />(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)<br /><br />Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow<br />speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.<br /><br />Setting the high and low needle valves properly:<br /><br />NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no<br />NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low<br />speed needle valve adjustment.<br /><br />(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to<br />full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns,<br />start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the<br />engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that<br />point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the<br />smoothest setting.<br /><br />(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral.<br />Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few<br />seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase.<br />Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit<br />the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point,<br />back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed<br />setting.<br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move<br />them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you<br />would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 

Riehle

Cadet
Joined
Oct 18, 2003
Messages
8
Re: 72 Evinrude 6 Questions

Hey Xcusme, here's what I found;<br /><br />I bought a carb kit, and after a little wrestling got the carb off (It went back on amazingly easy compared!). This engine was purported to have been reconditioned, but once I had the carb opened up I realized they missed a rebuild in their process...The original cork float was still inside, not to mention some very disintegrated cork and paper gasket material.<br /><br />What had impeded the flow of fuel, in fact, was pieces of broken-away gasket material which had gotten into the inlet and blocked the float needle valve...The kit included rubber gaskets, so my problem should be remedied. She runs like a champ now (just in time for winterization and storage!).<br /><br />Thanks for your help, and please don't go anywhere---I'll likely be back come April or May... ;)
 

Xcusme

Commander
Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
2,888
Re: 72 Evinrude 6 Questions

From what you yourself have realized, some folks idea of 'reconditioned' seems to be lacking. I'm glad you sorted out you're fuel problem. Between now and the spring, it would be a good idea to find a repair manual and do some reading. After what you found in the carb, I would inspect and replace the water pump impeller and check the lower unit lube. Replacement parts are cheap and the time spent learning the in's and out's of you're motor is time well spent.<br /><br />Feel free to come back here to the forum if you have questions. There are many very knowledgeable folks here to lend you a helping hand. :D
 

Riehle

Cadet
Joined
Oct 18, 2003
Messages
8
Re: 72 Evinrude 6 Questions

Heh heh, I told you I'd be back... ;) <br /><br />I just pulled the boat out of storage and re-filled the gear lube, attached plug wires, stuck 'er in a 50 gal. barrel and--drum roll please--That ol' Evvie 6 started on the first pull!!<br /><br />Thanks for all your help guys! I only wish they made an electric starter for this model (Dad is in his 70s and doesn't have the arm for pull starts anymore)...Maybe I'll find someone who'd like to trade for a 9 horse...<br /><br />Eric
 

Xcusme

Commander
Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
2,888
Re: 72 Evinrude 6 Questions

Ha! You said you'd be back in April or May. Glad to hear she popped right off. Properly tuned and maintained, those twins are some of the most dependable motors ever made. Have a safe boating season and come back if you need more help.
 

BrianTindall

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 8, 2004
Messages
165
Re: 72 Evinrude 6 Questions

Well i'm glad to see another fellow r/c pilot here! Glad you got the old 6 going. We used many of these old 6s for rental boats. Couldn't kill 'em! God only knows how many I rebuilt back about 24 or so years ago.
 

Riehle

Cadet
Joined
Oct 18, 2003
Messages
8
Re: 72 Evinrude 6 Questions

Hey Brian, and thanks. Yes, my main pastime for years now has been flying R/C, but since moving to the lakes area up here my passion for fishing has been rekindled and it will be tough making the time I want for both. Good thing that I have a .60 size Cub on floats--I can kill two fish with one trip!! :D
 
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