Re: 72 Evinrude 6 Questions
Eric,<br /><br />From what you're describing, the carb float is high and stopping the fuel from entering the carb, and that's the way it should work (if the line is going to the carb). If the float didn't stop the flow of fuel into the carb, you'd soon have a flooded condition. If the float itself is not dropping down as the fuel level in the carb bowl drops, the bowl will empty and cause a fuel starvation situation. Since you can spray fuel into the carb throat and the motor starts indicates, as you already know, a fuel starvation condition. There's no internal filter inside of the carb. <br /><br />If you can pump the primer bulb until firm and the motor will start , and continues to run, look at the fuel lines for a fuel leak, defective fuel pump, or an air leak in the fuel lines back to the tank.<br /><br />Pull the fuel line from the input of the carb, place fuel line in a small container. Pump the primer bulb and verify fuel is getting to the carb. Next , pull the starter rope a couple of times, you should see the fuel pump action by observing a pulsating squirting of fuel into the container. You now have verified that the carb is the problem. Pull the carb, remove bottom bowl and invert carb. Float should be level with the gasket surface. Bend the small float 'stop' to adjust if not level with carb body. Verify that the float needle valve is opening and closing as the float rises and falls. Spray carb cleaner into all passageways and blow out with compresses air. Remove the mixture screws, spray with carb cleaner and again blow out with compressed air. re-assemble carb.<br /><br />set mixture screws as applicable per destructions

below.<br /><br />-----------------------------------<br />Depending on which carb you have, pick one of the following.<br /><br />(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)<br /><br />Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.<br /><br />Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8<br />turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to<br />respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to<br />where the engine will just stay running.<br /><br />Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back<br />(sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4<br />turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.<br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move<br />them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you<br />would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.<br />--------------------------------------------------<br />(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)<br /><br />Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow<br />speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.<br /><br />Setting the high and low needle valves properly:<br /><br />NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no<br />NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low<br />speed needle valve adjustment.<br /><br />(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to<br />full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns,<br />start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the<br />engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that<br />point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the<br />smoothest setting.<br /><br />(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral.<br />Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few<br />seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase.<br />Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit<br />the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point,<br />back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed<br />setting.<br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move<br />them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you<br />would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.