Re: help with wiring on 1974 135hp -please
Dan... That ignition is self contained (Magneto Capacitance Discharge) with AC voltage (power) being supplied to the powerpack via the "Stator" that is located under the flywheel. The engine must be turning at least 300rpm in order to generate that AC voltage. DO NOT, under any circumstances, apply any DC voltage from the battery to that powerpack as it will destroy the pack!<br /><br />Now, the powerpack wiring. The top row of terminals are numbered left to right from 7 to 12.<br /><br />7=Brown - 8=Brown/Yellow - 9=White/Black - 10=#1 Coil Orange - 11=#3 Coil Orange - 12=Black/White<br /><br />Bottom terminals are numbered left to right 1 to 6.<br /><br />1=Black/Yellow - 2=Black/White - 3=#2 Coil Orange - 4=White/Black - 5=#4 Coil Orange - 6=Black (short black wire to ground).<br /><br />To Test Ignition/spark, remove s/plugs, rig up a tester whereas you can set a 7/16" gap or use a proper size philips screwdriver that will fit inside the plug wire connector that's inside the rubber boots. You can hold the screwdriver shank that 7/16" away from the block for the gap.<br /><br />Crank the engine with the key. You should have a strong blue lightning like flame (strong snap) jumping that gap. If not, disconnect the main RED electrical connector at the engine, then crank the engine by jumping from the starter solenoid battery cable to one of the small 3/8" nuts on the solenoid (not the ground 3/8" nut).<br /><br />If you have spark with the large RED plug disconnected but not with it being connected, usually the ignition switch is faulty.<br /><br />Note that a Service Manual will prevent you from making an expensive mistake (bottom of this page).
