Specific questions about water pump kit 140 hp.

[ted655]

'83 E 140 TR<br />1. one side of impeller shows bronze lip, the other side, the lip is covered by the rubber of the impeller. Which side goes next to the cover plate? I also see there is a part of the lip edge that forms a "stop" on the rubber covered side.<br />2. Even though my manual does'nt mention it, the instructions with the kit show an O-ring going between the impeller and the cover plate. O-ring or NO O-ring?<br />3. The manual says to coat both sides of the gasket, THEN put it between the cover plate and water pump housing. The kit instructions show the gasket between the cover plate and the lower unit. Who's right?<br />4. Is there a trick or tool (special screwdriver) that makes removing/installing the little screw on the shift shaft possible? this looks like the hardest part of the job.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Specific questions about water pump kit 140 hp.

hello<br /> what kit is this? I mean is it from bombardier or aftermarket? the side of the impeller that is undercut about 1/8 of an inch goes to the plate. I coat the gasket with gasket sealing compound or perfect seal. the order of assy is gasket then plate. then I use omc adhesive M to gloe the drive key in place. the small end will face the direction of rotation.then I assemble the cup in the housing,installing the oring in the housing then the insert. then I use dishwashing liquid to lube the impeller and install the impeller . now it gets tricky. the impeller will only work properly if installed with the vanes in the proper position. contrary to popular belief there is NOT suffecient room in that cup to reverse the vanes. it will try to pump but not enough to cool above idle.with the assembled housing in your left hand spin the impeller in using a counter clockwise rotation. make sure you did not get dish soap on the plastic as you will need to glue the oring in later.now we have the impellor in the housing now use a bead of OMC adhesive M to install the large housing oring. now the gasket,plate, small oring and drive key are on the shaft. now the trick is to bring the housing assy down the shaft and engage the drive key. I usually place the drive key at the side and place the impeller drive slot to the side and use my knife point to hold it while I bring it down. if all goes well it will sit almost flush. its not near as hard as it sounds. especially if you do a couple thousand . good luck and post back any questions.

 

[ted655]

Re: Specific questions about water pump kit 140 hp.

Thanks. This is a Bombardier kit.<br />I have no way to pull the boat out. I will have to back the boat up to our ramp and work on the motor tilted up at the edge of the water. I want as much preassembled as possible. I also want to clearly understand everything.. My motor is a 140TR and the dealer sold me a manual for TLCC-TXCC. (I've ordered a correct manual), The dealer said the waterpump procedeure would be the same, but like I posted, there are slight differences that con fuse me..<br />The kit is together now. I have the o-ring inside the housing glued in, the liner in, the impeller lubed with oil and turned CCW and in the liner. Then the big o-ring is glued in, this is to seal the cover plate and the housing. The watertube gromment is in, with the taper facing up. The big flat sided gromet is glued on the driveshaft opening of the water tube cover, which is screwed to the houseing with 2 new screws.I put a little adhesieve on the threads.<br />This leaves a small o-ring for the top of the driveshaft. A packet of molylube for the splines. A medium o-ring that goes between the impellar and the coverplate, AFTER the drive key is installed. Am I right? The kit picture shows it that way, but the manual makes no mention of this o-ring. ??????<br />Then the coverplate, sealent. Then the gasket,sealent. (can I use the blue ATF?) Then bolt the assembly to the gearcase, useing anti-gall sealent on the threads.<br />The only thing left in my kit is a big grromet with a tiny hole, they say is for the shift rod.<br /><br />Any trick to removing the little shiftrod screw/pin? It looks hard to get to, up under the carb, Geeze!!

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Specific questions about water pump kit 140 hp.

hello ya pretty much got it right. except the oring that goes down the shaft against the plate should be on before the drive key. it goes against the plate. double check that when the impeller is in the upright installed position the vanes are set for a clockwise rotation. this will be counter clockwise with the housing upside down. the vanes tips drag behind the roots.<br /> the shift dissconnect is accesible with a long extension and a swivel socket. I use black tape to stiffen the joint as well as to holt the bolt to the socket when reinstalling. it is some easier with the airbox removed. use no sealer on the pump to plate. the oring will seal it. the hard part will be reintalling it. the shift rod has a tendancy to rotate while the gear case goes up. I usually set the rod height then mark a line with a magic marker so I know what way the rod moved when I move it back. make sure the rod starts in the shift block and the exhaust tube is still in place. sometimes I have to use picks to make the seal ride up the flats on the tube. the shift shaft,water tube,exhaust seal and tube as well as the crank splines all have to fit at about the same time.<br /> good luck and keep posting