Re: sea horse td 20 help
The first thing to do is test compression in the cylenders. As Chinewalker stated it may be a tad on the low side. Since these motors run a 24:1 fuel/oil ratio or more, sometimes 16:1. The rings can get sticky. Most TDs were used as fishing motors,(they were and still can be dandys). This usually involved a lot of slow speed trolling. To achieve this slow put-put mode most guys tend to richen up the low speed needle (air/fuel ratio). This tends to make an oily, gooey,carbony mess of the rings, combustion and exhaust chambers. This is the area Chinewalker was refering to. If the motors were used on a continual basis this might not be as big a problem. But most guys used the motors for a few seasons and the older the motors got the more they were left hanging in the garage. Some for as long as ten to twenty years now. Quite often all that is needed to free up one of these little greese buckets is a shot of fresh 24:1 in each hole and spin it a time or two. Other times we have to get more agressive and use an engine cleaner/decarb product, one brand is Seafoam.<br /><br /> The cylenrical cover you speak of is the flywheel. The electrical stuff you see is, two magnito coils(they have plug wires protruding from them). Two condencers, and two point sets. There will be a magnito rotor, that slides off the end of the crank shaft. Remove this and you should be able to see the Bakealite rub sticks. With a little carefull investigation you should be able to see how this all works.<br /> Now for the carb. Turn the low speed needle out about 11/2 turns from lightly seated. Be sure it is in fact seated. Sometimes knobs,linkage,etc bind up and give you a false feeling (do not use forse). The high speed needle is about 1/2 to3/4 turn out from lightly seated. This should get you started, you will have to adjust from there.<br /> The copper pipe you removed and blew into is a cooling water pipe. There is a hole in the elbow fitting. This is for the tattle tale,pisser (cooling water indecator). The water pump is located on the prop shaft, behind a cover,in front of the prop. You will need to remove the prop in order to inspect this.<br /> I think you can still get those little springs for the starter?? I think it is easier to make them. Something you'll have to play with.<br /> I'm not sure I can get the info into your hot mail box,it my be too small. I will try.<br /> For a starting procedure try this. Turn on the petcock. You should be able to see the end to the float valve sticking out the top of the float bowl a bit.Push down on the primer/low speed knob, until you get 2-3 good squirts. You should see a few drips of fuel at the high speed orifice(don't over do it, it makes a mess). Set the main speed control to start and pull the rope. If you have more questions just ask. let us know how your making out.
