Hydro electric drive

[baert6]

I have a 1971(I think) Johnson 50HP Hydro electric drive Model# 50ES71S.<br /> I'm having a problem with the shifting. Right now when I start the motor it is in forward and won't go into neutral or reverse. <br /> I'm slowly becoming familiar with how this works. I've been told that it could be as simple as the gear lube that is being used. I don't think that is the problem because I've used it for many hours and haven't had a problem other than when my battery was dead. But the battery is not dead and I'm assuming that its the correct gear lube in it( can anyone tell me the correct lube to use?).<br /> So now I would like to check to see if I have power going to the lower unit (to the hydro pump I think). I see two wires going down below the block. I'm assuming these are the two that I'm looking for. I just need to know how many volts they need at what time. Can I check when the motor is not running but in start position or does it actually need to be running?<br /> I would appreciate any input on this problem or anything more on how this shifting actually works.<br /> Thank You,<br /> Baert6

 

[arboatdr]

Re: Hydro electric drive

Testing the memory? I'm pretty sure the motor you have powers up one of the wires for neutral and both for reverse. Should be 12 v. Some one else will probably verify for me. good luck

 

[phatmanmike]

Re: Hydro electric drive

hi. i have same motor, but mine is 72, and i have owned other eveinrude electric shifts. i can tell you this..... you need type c lower unit oil...<br />as for those two wires, they were origonally 1 green and 1 blue, i dont know if yours still are, but none the less...<br /><br />if no voltage is applied to either wire, the unit is in forward gear, if voltage is applied to both wires, it is on reverse, and if voltage is aplied to only one, i cante remeber which one off top of head, experiment, then it is in nuetral. the unit will not shift unless it is running, so aplying voltage to just the one wire with motor off and wondering why porp still turns when you turn fly wheel, that is why. motor must run to shift. when i speak of volateg i speak about a full 12 volts<br /><br />to test the selenoids with a voltmeter do this<br />set voltmeter to resistance/ ohms and touch one lead to one wire, either one doesnt matter, and other lead to a good ground, you should see 5-7 ohms resistince in each one, one at a time. iff higher or lower than this, start checking for ground issues.<br /><br />have you pulled lower unit yet, very easy to do since ther is no shift linkage to screw up, just be shure that you tie a string to your two wires heading down the lower unit before hand so you can pull them back up. its almost imposible to do without this. check for water and change that impellar while your at it... they are only 13 bucks at outboardparts.com<br /><br /> alot of times those shifters with the 3 buttons, well, they suck and dont last too long... there are ways around this if you are handy with wiring.. you could use a 3 button switch as a shifter but make shure if you do this that you wire in a nuetral safety switch so you dont start boat in gear, and also a safety so that you dont shift from forward to reverse at full throttle. this can all be done very easily<br /><br />any other help on that lower unit email me direct phatmanmike@yahoo.com

 

[OBJ]

Re: Hydro electric drive

phatmanmike said it right <br /><br />Blue and Green wire going to lower unit. Blue is reverse and green is forward.<br /><br />No power to either = forward.<br /><br />Power (12V's) to the green = neutral<br /><br />Power (12v's) to both = reverse.<br /><br />As mike said, only use a gear lube for electric shifts like Bomby's Premium C Blend. There are others out there, just be sure the label reads for electric shifts.<br /><br />Keep us posted.....thanks.