Originally posted by Paul Moir:<br /> Welcome to iboats, boots!<br />A Lark II 40hp was built in 1960, but over time hoods get swapped. Try to get us the model number from the nameplate on top of the transom clamp, and we'll get you a positive ID.<br />You must pull the flywheel and remove the armature plate to access the ends of the spark plug wires.<br />Bad wires on these old outboards are rare, but if it's cracked or chafed, it's clearly bad and should be replaced.<br /><br />Does both your spark plug leads jump a 7/16" gap?<br />How's your compression?<br />Did you rebuild the carburetor? Do the adjustments "do anything?"<br /><br />Don't try to remove the flywheel without the correct tools. The first tool your going to need is a service manual. Get one from iboats, or borrow one from your local library, or order an OEM reprinted manual from one of the following locations:<br />TheOutboardWizard<br />Mastertech<br />Marine Engine<br />Ken Cook <br />Also check ebay for used manuals. Search for "Johnson manual" and "evinrude manual". An equivelant year Johnson is mechanically identical.<br />The other two tools youneed to pull a flywheel are:<br />An outboard flywheel puller or a beefy harmonic balancer puller and a set three 1/4"-20 long grade 8 bolts. Do not use any sort of puller that does not act on the three bolt holes around the flywheel nut!<br />And a torque wrench so you can torque the flywheel nut properly. It must be torqued to exactly 105ft/lbs or you end up breaking flywheel keys.<br /><br />Hope this gets you started!