Year Of Johnson 10Hp..:)

Darkocean

Recruit
Joined
Jun 1, 2004
Messages
5
Hey Anyone out there<br />I have a Old Johnson Seahorse 10Hp Engine..QD-20<br />1.. What year is this Engine..?(I think about 1959)<br />2.. It has been standing i gather for a while..<br />and the carb is a bit stuck.Where can i get a manual for this..?And if neccesary where can i get a replacement Carb...?<br /><br />If anyone could help it would be great, as i am brand new to this game...<br />Roy
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Year Of Johnson 10Hp..:)

Welcome to Iboats, Roy!<br /><br />Johnson Model QD-20:<br />Year: 1959<br />HP: 10<br />WOT RPMS: 4000<br />Displacment: 16.6CID<br />Sparkplugs: Champion J4C (was J4J) gapped at .030"<br />Fuel/oil mix: 24:1 87 octane gas to TCW-3 rated outboard oil.<br /><br />2) You can order an aftermarket manual from Iboats, borrow one from your library, or order an OEM repair manual from one of the following locations:<br />TheOutboardWizard<br />Mastertech<br />Marine Engine<br />Ken Cook <br />You should also check ebay for an OEM manual. Search for 'Johnson manual' and 'Evinrude manual'. A '59 Evinrude 10hp is mechanically identical to your Johnson.<br />The OEM manuals are technically superior to the aftermarket ones, but are generally more expensive. Whichever you buy, it will be the best money you will ever spend on an outboard.<br />You'll want a carb kit for fixing up that carburetor. Replacing a carburetor is almost unheard of here, but disassembling, cleaning and rebuilding them is very common. Get a kit from a Bombardier dealer since the aftermarket kits don't come with floats. The old fashioned cork floats have a habit of sinking. It's part number 439071 for your QD. You can also order it online click here. <br />You'll also want to replace your water pump impeller. It is part number 18-3003 ordered from this website. It's a normal maintanance item, and if you don't know for a fact that it's been replaced in the last two years, it's due for a change.<br />Another common source for troubles on these old engines are cracked ignition coils. If you examine them and you find cracks in the insulation, they're shot. Fortunetly, new ones are pretty cheap. Iboats sells them (PN 18-5181) for around $16 each. Get new points and condensors too and you'll have a fresh ignition system for around $50.<br />Get your manual before trying to pull the flywheel to look at the ignition coils. You must use a correct puller to get it off (not an edge puller), and torque the flywheel nut to specs before you run it again.<br /> Nice QD-19 Site - Don't try to use it instead of a manual though!<br /><br />Hope that helps!
 

Darkocean

Recruit
Joined
Jun 1, 2004
Messages
5
Re: Year Of Johnson 10Hp..:)

Wow :D <br />That is amazing....!<br />Thanks a million..<br />You have been very helpful,I really appreciate it.<br />Just one more question..<br />Are these motors worth repairing being so old...?<br />Thanks again<br />Roy
 

JB

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
45,907
Re: Year Of Johnson 10Hp..:)

The QD-20 is one of the great ones, Roy.<br /><br />45 Years is not old when it is a Johnny that has had reasonable care.<br /><br />If you don't want to fix it send it to me. :) :) <br /><br />I would consider it well worth fixing, if fixing is really needed.<br /><br />Good luck. :)
 

Paul Moir

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Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Year Of Johnson 10Hp..:)

Absolutely. If running a compression test and checking the lower unit oil prove positive (Even compression and no water in lower unit) than there can't be much wrong with it. For not much money anything can be fixed if your willing to wrench it yourself. A lot less than a new outboard anyway, or a more recently made used one with it's own, often expensive problems.<br />Even if there's a compression problem or a lower unit leak, more often than not it's worth fixing.<br /><br />If you look around this forum some, you'll find lots of people running engines as old or older than yours. And they're not babying their 'antique' engines. The fifties and sixties were really the golden age of outboards - extremely well built although technically simple - which is why there are so many of them still running today.<br /><br />Run a compression check (buy/borrow a compression tester) and check the lower unit oil before throwing wads of cash at it. We're looking for no more than 10% difference between cylinders.<br /><br />EDIT: PS - We are not allowed to call an engine an antique unless it's older than JB. :) <br />Pardon the post collision, JB!
 

Darkocean

Recruit
Joined
Jun 1, 2004
Messages
5
Re: Year Of Johnson 10Hp..:)

Hey Guys<br />Or Paul.. :) <br />The Water Pump Impeller that i want to buy for my<br />10Hp, is that the kit...?<br />Mastertech only refer to the ....382468 @ $54.00 <br />That is a waterpump kit..Is this right..?<br />Paul Moir said that the Impeller Code is 18-3003<br />but i can't find that for the life of me.. :( <br />only this other one...Any help to under which section is is at mastertech..?<br />Thx
 

bubbakat

Captain
Joined
Oct 29, 2002
Messages
3,110
Re: Year Of Johnson 10Hp..:)

Roy he has this number for the pump kit for yours is 382296<br />but your best buy is the whole tune up kit it contains the followings and it will put that little Jewel in tip top shape.<br /><br />10HP 1958-63<br />WITH THERMOSTAT 172522 TUNE KIT<br />2] 584477 COILS<br />PLUG WIRE, BOOTS<br />2] NGK B8S SPARK PLUGS<br />439071 CARB KIT<br />308394 HEAD GASKET<br />775519 IMPELLER<br />403 STAT<br />STAT GASKET Price:$157.00
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Year Of Johnson 10Hp..:)

Bubbakat is right on. The 10hp water pump was changed in '58 (the same time the 10hp got a thermostat) to 382296. Part number 382296 is expensive because it includes a new housing - it's a complete new water pump. 18-3003 (an aftermarket part) can be ordered from Iboats, or your local NAPA autoparts, and is just the impeller part of the water pump. It's substantially cheaper, but it can only be used if your water pump is otherwise in good shape. <br />Actually, 18-3402 would be better since it is includes a new wear plate in addition to an impeller.<br />The 18- numbers are Sierra brand aftermarket parts which are less expensive. Mastertech mostly carries OEM (Bombardier) stuff.
 
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