desperate -keep trying nothing works???

[gain11]

guys I'm sure you're tired of me but my Clymer manual is not much help.'54 5.5 Johnson starts and will run if i squirt premix in carb. I have rebuilt carb twice and used compressed air and carb cleaner. I'm positive there are no mistakes, all jets are clear.I've got fuel in the float bowl and sediment bowl. new plug,point and condenser and points gapped at .20. the only thing is the pressure tank squirts gas back out of primer button shaft after pumping up. could this cause the engine to starve for gas? someone said this probably wasn't the problem. My 7 yr. old really wants to go fishing. Any ideas?

 

[OBJ]

Re: desperate -keep trying nothing works???

Hello gain....If the button squirts fuel back out the button then the tank isn't holding pressure which means no fuel is going to make it to carb. This is a pressure system and depends on the fuel tank holding pressure. Replace the diaphram on the fuel tank unit. Believe it or not they are still available....well, pretty sure they are as I havn't ordered one for a while. If the local Johnny/Rude dealer can't get one, try the link below.<br /><br /> http://www.twincityoutboards.com/

 

[gain11]

Re: desperate -keep trying nothing works???

thanks so much Obj. question? does the carb receive pressure from the tank to force gas into the carb throat, i was just wondering how the fuel got from place to place in a carb. I'm just learning.

 

[alcan]

Re: desperate -keep trying nothing works???

Hi Gain<br />The engine supplies presure to the tank, from the crank case via the air line. This is not a great deal of presure (I heard about 4 lbs) just enough to force fuel to the filter and fill the bowl of the carb. Once the bowl is full to the correct amount the float shuts off the flow. The main nozzle protrudes into the carb's venturi (the narrow place looking into the carb from the front. The other end of this main nozzle hangs down in the bowl. The reciprocating motion of the pistons creates vacuume and presure pulses. The vacuume pulses draw air into the venturi and past the nozzle, this draws fuel from the bowl. Now about your tank, I bet you have the model with the aluminium primer button on an aluminium shaft. Later models had a one piece plastic button. Here is the problem, The button on that shaft is supposed to rotate, the shaft is not. The buttons often become stuck to the shaft or fall off and are lost. This stuck or lost button situation allows torque to be applied to the shaft while priming (sort of a natural thumb motion). This twists the shaft loosening the nut on the bottom end. This causes the leak you describe. It would be wise to rebuild your tank and connector. How ever if just that nut has fallen off you can make a quickie repair just to tune your motor. These fuel systems are 50 yrs. old now, some have never had a repair or service. Once they get a good going over they will probly last another 50years. As I stated there are two models of these tanks. So there are two different diaphrams. Basicly both are exactly the same except the older model diaphram has a hole in it for the primer shaft and it costs more. This diaphram with the hole in it will not work on the newer tank with the plastic button. The good new is the newer,cheeper diaphram w/o the hole will work on an older tank ( you furnish the hole). If you have any questions just ask. Post your Email address and I will try and send you some usefull info for you motor. Read your clymer manual. Almost all the info I gave you is in there some where.

 

[gain11]

Re: desperate -keep trying nothing works???

you have assumed correctly ol' wise one. I have the aluminum button, but from the manual I don't see the nut. When iI had the tank apart 2 days ago I seem to remember the button being at the top of the sending tube which has a filter screen on the bottom. I'll have to check tommorrow. But thanks so much for taking the time to reply and explain. My email is fnng5@aol.com . I'm trying to learn to work on outboards but my cash flow is very limited, very! I have aquired 3 motors: 64 Jhnsn Seahrse 10, 54 jhnsn 5.5, and a 74 Merc 650 all of which need work. I got the 10hp running but i have lwr unit probs, you know the story on the 5.5, and the 65hp is my next big project. Once again thank you for your help.

 

[alcan]

Re: desperate -keep trying nothing works???

Hi gain<br />You will have to remove the top of the tank. Turn it over so the feed tube is facing up. Then you will need to remove the cover to the diaphram. There are screws that hold it on. The nut and star lock washer will either be loose on the primer shaft or you will find them in the cone shaped bump where the tube is attached. Be careful work slowly, note where things go. There are springs and presure relieve and things that can get lost. If the diaphram is torn,rotted or worn threw you will need to replace it before you can continue with your motor. If just the nut is loose or off, Yhe first thing to do is free-up the button on the end of the shaft. It is held to the shaft with a cotter pin. Again work slowly, the aluminium shaft will break if handled too rough. Loosening this button will prevent this from tearing the diaphram or haveing the nut fall off.