35 johnson 1976

[ross patti]

Hi guys,new member here with problem.when motoring to fish in morning,everything is o.k. when moving after a few hrs,the motor surges when above approx. half throttle.As the forums tell me the fuel setup excludes air,this is where i started.The take off fitting on top of tank had fuel seeping around most of its gasket;so i surmise that air can enter at this spot.I am still looking for a suitable sealant/gasket that will handle the pressure.Am i barking up the right tree?? I dont think its a fuel blockage because when it surges,the rise&fall in rpm is mostly smooth,not sudden&jerky like fuel interruption.thanx in advance....

 

[fireman57]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

G'Day and welcome to iboats. Your dealer has these parts in stock if it is a factory tank.

 

[ross patti]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

thanx fireman57,wow you guys are quick! I dont mind going down the vacuum leak road if you think that my problem lies there

 

[ross patti]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

one more thing,fireman....your grasp of the Australian vocabulary is fantastic.your "G'day" was that well placed,it slipped by me the first time.Good one,mate !

 

[fireman57]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

The leak could definitely be the culprit. When you get too much air sucked through you don't get the fuel you need. Patch that baby up and we'll go from there. If that doesn't work we have other cheap things to check. As for the grasp of the vocab you would be surprised how many fellow Brisby's and other down unders there are on this forum. It's great. I get to learn about carbys and other gadgets that go by different names up here in Yankland. There are even a few Kiwi's on the forum. Don't forget us here and post again when you have fixed your tank. One tip though. Don't start a new thread unless it is acompletely different problem. That way we can go down the thread and see what has been done to correct it.

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

I think this is the gasket you need. http://www.go2marine.com/frameset.j...ch&servletPath=/g2m&action=DoSearch&x=12&y=12 <br /><br />Even though freight is high on something this small, with the price of fuel needed to drive to the dealer, it may be worth considering.

 

[ross patti]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

Thanx fireman&boat buoy 4 the replies.I got a gasket from a johnson dealer today.will fit tomorrow.The dealer threw in a curly one and suggested it may be an electrical gizmo that lives under the flywheel.But like you said,lets skin one cat at a time.I also borrowed a Clymer shop manual,so now I'm learned and dangerous.There are lots of things I didn't know about the motor till now.Everyone should have a manual.

 

[ross patti]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

One other thing,fireman.If you lived in sunny QLD,I'll guess that you would have got seriously,and I mean Seriously,home sick when you first heard about "winterizing" an outboard........What a depressing picture that paints.

 

[fireman57]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

The only winterizing I do is make sure that there is fuel stabilizer in the tank and drain and refil my lower unit. To finish off the winterizing I make sure that I have plenty of beer and petrol in the tractor for clearing snow.

 

[ross patti]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

hey fireman,have put gasket on.will let sealant dry for a day or two then fill tank.A 20 minute drive with boat & trailer should shake the fuel enough to test the seal.Fingers crossed.The elec.part the dealer mentioned under the flywheel is the charge coil.Hopefully it's as simple as this gasket.

 

[fireman57]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

If that doesn't do it (needs fixed anyway) You may be dropping a cylinder due to a powerpack going south. Sometimes when they break down when hot and you will lose spark to a cylinder. It will idle fine but when you are running it will start slowing down. Just finished working on my brothers 1978 35 and had a heckuva time getting the plug wire seated good in the new coil. You have to screw it on and measure the depth on the wire to make sure you have it all the way in. You might also check your ground wire from the powerpack and clean it up real good. While you are waiting you might check and clean all your electrical connections. Take the fuel pump cover off and check the diaphragm. If it is wavy or has a small tear in it get a rebuild kit. They are very inexpensive and easy to put on. Just don't lose the little spring in there. You stated that it doesn't do it in the morning. Do you run the same amount of time in the morning as you do later in the day? Does your engine get to operating temperature in the morning?

 

[ross patti]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

Hey,fireman..thanx for hanging in.I usually motor about 15mins. in morn.,then after 2hrs or so i'll move off to another spot.The motor will reach temp. in that time. It seems to run perfect<br /> when cold,then muck up later. I gave the electrics a look over & cleaned up the main connector panel.Also changed the fuse near the solenoid as it & it's holder were rusted up.Put in a 20 amp..right or wrong?The rectifier looked o.k .Will look at testing rest of elecs soon ,thanx again

 

[ross patti]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

Fireman 57,I'm getting sick of fuel smell on my fingers.Can't get this bloody tank to seal.I'm thinking of just buying a new plastic tank.The one i'm looking at has just a male outlet at top,stick your hose on it,connect other end to motor,and presto !.Will this work on my rig? Also went thru a bit of the electrics,cleaned here & tightened there.Could'nt see a ground from powerpack,but fixed one near the solenoid.I know we said to fix one thread at a time,but my carby is also leaking fuel from it's front when the motor is tilted up.A little help on this front would also be greatly appreciated.Thanx again...

 

[fireman57]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

Yes a plastic tank will work but I prefer the OEM tanks as the quality is better. Get a carb kit and rebuild the carby. It's prestty easy. If I remember right you have to take the starter off to get to the carb. Make sure that you unhook your positive battery cable first or you will get sparked. If you pay attention when you take the carb apart you will have no problem putting in the kit parts. Get a manual. A good manual. OEM preferred. I'll keep in touch. Weekends are tough for me to stay with it.

 

[ross patti]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

Hey,fireman...thanx always for your help. I've gone off in 3 directions,sorry.For now,let's stick with tank & powerpack. I tried the gasket and it seems to seal,but while shaking the tank to test seal,I turned it upside down and fuel was pouring from the take off fitting itself.I know that up-ending it is not normal,but I was surprised it leaked.The new tank I'm looking at is a "hulk"brand and is the only 6 gal. that will fit in a limited space,but I'll check out a genuine...it makes sense. Now to the powerpack.My motor does not have one.It's a RL76S serial no:0000002- it might be a test model.My ign.coils don't have any wiring heading starboard apart from the plugs.The area behind the main cable connector is empty .No PP in sight anywhere.Could OMC not have used CD2 ignition on early motors in that series? BUT,my ign.coils have a blue plastic sheathing about 1mm.thick,that covers the centre part of the coil.It has a split in this casing which has some old silicone on it.On the other coil,there is a split at the back uncovered.Is that terminal for the coils? The wires from the top are very well sealed,so I imagine these splits are bad news. I cleaned up as much as I could,which helps in working out what goes where.Gee,I'd love to know where the hell my powerpack went.There is no sign of it ever being there......looking forward to sorting this out ,then going for a wander thru the carby.thanx again

 

[rwise]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

If the coils have cracks in the insulation, change them, before they stop working all together. If the fitting going into the tank where the fuel line connects is leaking gas, it could be pulling air when running.

 

[fireman57]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

Rosco as rwise said. Change you tank fitting. They are cheap and easy. No sheila jokes here. When you pull air it acts like a lot of other problems. Your plug wires go into the powerpack or coil. When you put the new ones on read my previous post about assembling them. You have to make sure that the plug wire is centered on the post on the new coil. Make sure when you attach them that the surface is clean. Between your tank, carby kit, and coils you should be ready to go. When this engine is right you'll crack a fat. If I remember right you are not the only cane toad on the forum. Have a butcher for me.

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

I have a 1977 parts manual which covers 25 and 35. This year they used CD2 ignition. I checked the MegaMall here and there's no PP listed for 1976 but there is for 1977. This may have been the transition time.

 

[ross patti]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

Thanx to rwise,BoatBuoy and the ever patient fireman. rwise,I called my local omc dealer and was told that cracks in the coil casing don't matter and it'll go for another 20 yrs.Me thinks not.Common sense and you guys tell me to change the coils.Thy will be done.The old tank will soon be retired from active service.Tanks again rwise.BoatBuoy,I'm upset I have no powerpack because it makes the motor sound faster.Seriously though,I'm hoping the new tank & coils will fix my problems. Fireman,to a cane toad,I am a Mexican.My postcode starts with 2.I am a blue,though Wally is the greatest I've seen.I thought that I am the only sick puppy to crack a fat over a motor,It's good to see that sheer passion still exists.I think I know what a butcher is.I just asked my wife for one....

 

[fireman57]

Re: 35 johnson 1976

I hope it worked out with your wife but my Aussie is a little rusty. If I remember a butcher was a small beer. I would replace the coils because chances are they will break down when they get hot at operating temperature. When they cool back down your engine will start and run for a while then drop a cylinder and run at low rpms. Not familiar with a blue. Do know now that you are south of Queenie though. Is Wally the same as your old fella? I'm glad you joined this forum. Give the cobbers here a fair go and you'll find their blood is worth bottling.