Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

[Freezebear]

Hello. Motor is a 92 60HP 3cyl. Went out yesterday morning and motor cranked up ok and trolled down the bayou to the store and shut it down. Came back 10 mins later and cranked right up. Ran 5 miles open 39mph out and suddenly the engine stalled for a second or two and then pulled right back up. I thought maybe it sucked an air bubble or something? Checked all gauges and fuel ines real quick and kept going to my fishing spot 12 miles away. Got there and ran the rest of the tank down moving from spot to spot. Between these trips while restarting the engine I would have to start it in warm up and choke it when I shouldn't have needed to. Switched tanks when it ran out and started to die. Cranked right up on the 2nd tank. Fished a few spots and now motor was cranking up first bump of the starter and idling beautifully. Ran a total of 50 miles and it ran without a hitch. Ran the 12 mile run home and stopped at a spot along the way. Cranked right up then too. Drove back and trolled back to the launch and started noticing that I couldn't put the throttle back all the way without it dying so had to keep RPM's up a little. Brought the boat back home and now it will hardly run at all on the garden hose. Any ideas?

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

Water in the fuel tanks?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

Freeze.... As Willy suggests, check the fuel for water.<br /><br />Regardless of the problem, always check compression and spark. Have the plugs removed also when checking spark.<br /><br />If the above is okay, I'd suspect that either the fuel pump is failing, there is a air/fuel leak somewhere between the fuel pump and the fuel supply (usually the "O" Rings in the hose connectors), or a fuel restriction.<br /><br />If you're using the same fuel line on both tanks, check the fuel hose primer bulb valves. The valves have been known to come apart and the inner portion would turn around then be drawn back into its casing..... acting like a fuel shut off valve.

 

[Freezebear]

Re: Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

Thanks Joe and Willy. Just got back in from checking it out. The primer bulb is defective in some way. This is what it does. I took the connector ends off both ends of the fuel line and found while squeezing the bulb gas would flow bacwards as well as forwards when sqeezing the bulb. Could a primer bulb cause this problem. I thought all the primer bulb was for was to prime up the fuel line if it went empty. <br />I drained the carbs and fuel line and did not see any water. Thanks again.

 

[Freezebear]

Re: Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

Hey I just remembered last year I had to replace the primer bulb. It would stall at high speed and when I would stop it would still idle, just could not deliver enough gas to run at high speed. Can these primer bulbs fail in different modes?

 

[Freezebear]

Re: Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

Well I need some more help. I went out and replaced the fuel primer bulb and refilled with fresh gas and drained the fuel system. Still doing the same thing. Checked all fuel hoses and connections. Checked carberauter mounting bolts. Will only crank if you give half throttle and keep RPM's up over 1600RPM. Anything less than that and it will kill. It is also popping back in the top carb only. What could be the problem? I had this similar problem last year and was told by the boat shop that I had a case leak. I fixed it myself by resealing the case and have ran it every weekend since until now. I hate to think the case is leaking again. Is this a common problem with these motors? I guess it's getting time for a powerhead. If there is anything else that would cause this problem let me know. I hate to replace the powerhead just to have the same problem.

 

[Freezebear]

Re: Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

Anyone??

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

Your last post would indicate that the carburetors are fouled in some manner. Have you checked everything we've mentioned?

 

[Freezebear]

Re: Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

I just had carbs serviced last year. I drained the bowls and all had gas. I checked the connections and bowl gaskets for each carb for leaks. I have been running good quality gas and Penzoil Synthetic oil every tank. I run the motor almost every weekend on the hose if I don't go out to keep the gas fresh in the carbs. What could I be missing in the carbs? Thanks again for the input. Could a bad pickup coil or powerpack cause this?

 

[Freezebear]

Re: Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

No sucess on my motor today. Replaced the stator and powerpack, synced and linked according to manual. On first start it fired, which is a good thing, but would not stay running at Slow position. Only way to make it stay running was to crack throttles a little and choke. Once running, it would only run at 1800 RPM or higher. Any slower and it would start missing and sneezing out the top carb. If I sprayed a little fuel mix in while running I could get it to idle down to around 1200 RPM, but as soon as I quit spraying the mixture in the carb, it would try to idle up and then start sneezing out the top carb. I just went through this carb and it looked clean, but there is some play in the butterfly shaft, and I can see light throgh the space between the shaft and the bore. I didn't think this was enough to cause it to run this bad. I'm off to try to locate a carb from a salvage yard this week and try again.

 

[Goldfish]

Re: Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

check the low speed jets in the carbs because the engine runs better with fuel being sprayed. Run compressed air through all the little passages, possibly a small copper wire dont force it though, just make sure they are clear. Make sure that you at least have a factory manual. Also, make sure that your reeds are sealing properly while you have your carbs off.

 

[Freezebear]

Re: Help 60 HP Fuel Problem?

Update!<br />Ok I got another carb from a local mechanic to try on my motor. He couldn't find anything wrong in my carb but told me it had to be that due to it sneezing. Brought the new carb home and it still did the same thing!<br />Checked the timing with a light while cranking and found it severly retarded by almost 25 degrees. Disconnected the linkages so the throttles are closed and I can move the timer base freely. If I move the timer base counterclockwise all the way against the wide open stop, the timing marks line up with 4 degrees BTDC and the motor idles at 1100RPM. I rotate the timer base clockwise to 2degrees ATDC the engine idles down to around 800. Any more clockwise movement causes it to start sneezing and dying. Also the timing is not jumping around when I crack open the carbs and rev it up a little. Very steady.<br />The stator and powerpack are new. I pulled the flywheel and checked the center magnet. I do not see any marks to know if it is lined up properly. What are the chances of the timing magnet getting loose?