turning point props

[rebs]

I called turning point and the guy told me to order the same pitch that I have now<br />I have a 1999 merc 115 hp with factory 21 pitch prop<br />from the posts I have read here you are for the most part dropping 2 inches<br />my wot rpms now are 5000 at 43 mph<br />should I drop or stay the same ?<br />also from the pics in the catalog I see these props as high polished aluminum and look like a SS prop but they are actually powder painted grey<br />how well does this paint hold up<br /><br />Rebs

 

[OBJ]

Re: turning point props

Hey rebs....first thing you may want to check on is the operating range of your engine. This is to see if you can safely get more rpms. Rule of thumb with prop pitches, for ever degree of prop pitch added or subtracted, add or subtract 150 - 200 rpms. What kind of rig do you have the motor on? Are you looking for more speed or a better hole shot? Probably what you were lookingat were stainless props. Paint on props will eventually wear off. Little more info and there are some humdinger prop gurus on the forum that can give ya more advice.<br /><br />OBJim

 

[thosch]

Re: turning point props

I have one of these props (one hub and two blade sets). I bought them last winter and used one blade set almost exclusively this last summer. My total hours last summer of running time in the boat was probably close to 50 hours (short season up here). The paint has held up much better than my previous alum. painted props, but I can see some paint surface erosion on the blades if I look real close. I'm guessing this is probably due to some cavitation. Looking at the prop while standing upright by the boat, it still looks new. I'm happy with how it has held up, the cost, and performance. I use the second set while pulling skiers/boarders. Easy to change out.

 

[rebs]

Re: turning point props

operating rpms are 4750 to 5250<br />so I am right in the middle<br />I am looking for a little more top end<br /><br />rebs

 

[OBJ]

Re: turning point props

rebs....at 5000rpm, your close to red line. I'd keep it at that. Gives you some lee way on the high end. Course some jocks will prop out for max rpm and stay below WOT. But if they need that little extra, they got it. If the rig performs well for ya'with the existing prop, stay with it.<br /><br />OBJim

 

[ob]

Re: turning point props

rebs ,If you're willing to let go of a few more bucks you could opt for a s/s prop of the same pitch and dia.and kill two birds.They slice the water a bit better and may very well give you some more R's.which would equal a bit better top end.

 

[jasonnb]

Re: turning point props

I have both a turning point alim 19 pitch and a 21 pitch al Michigan for my Mercruiser #1R drive. The TP seems to have a slightly more aggressive cup as it's top end is not far off the 21. The TP carries the bow a bit higher as well. There is only about 75-100 RPM's between them. I wouldn't be surprised if you loose 50-100 RPM's with the tp due to teh cup. I like the one I have.

 

[rebs]

Re: turning point props

I am noit really interested in a SS propas I have heard many times that if you hot something they really tear up the lower unit because there in no give to them<br /><br />is this true<br /><br />rebs

 

[ob]

Re: turning point props

That is an assumption that is debatable.Fact is, they are hubbed to spin out and damper just as an aluminum prop.Another twist to it, is that theory is under the assumption that an underwater obstruction will be initially contacted by the prop and not the lower unit case.<br /><br /> It is also under the assumption that when encountering an object with an aluminum prop that it will spin or shear its blades before enough torque is transmitted to bend propshaft or damage gear assy.<br /><br /> Although if your particular case involves frequent encountering of underwater obstructions,ie stumps and the like ,it may be a consideration of using aluminum as opposed to stainless.Just my take.