honestly id get a better gauge and/or borescope the cylinders at this juncture. id have the powerhead off, exhaust covers and heads off to do a thorough inspection of cylinders/pistons/rings and put the upgraded engine holder with loctited lower crank seal and upgraded 1 piece exhaust covers...
how are you determining its running lean? a few drops of fuel into each carb throat. if it picks up rpm, its running lean. if its sneezing, those carb plates might be stuck open a hair or the spring for the throttle shaft isnt wrapped around it to put tension on them.
they had this adapter kit up through 1988 for the 2 cyl loopers. it was really kind of a lemon design IMO. better to get a CMC model 130. whole thing would rust out and just almost never work correctly. obviously a big reason for the 1989 re-design was because OMC needed a clean and light...
sounds like a carb issue. if the fuel pump was dying, its rare to have it only fail at slow speed but be unaffected in its function at higher speeds. to test this, remove air silencer cover and squirt a little premix into each carb throat when it starts dying. that way you can isolate which idle...
yes a simple 10w 10 ohm resistor is easy and dirt cheap to find on amazon. they are used for headlights on mopeds and such. test primary coil output by simply piercing the primary terminal boot at each ignition coil. write down voltage. then do the same but with above resistor. if the numbers...
only way to know is to make 110% sure delicate idle circuits in all carbs are clean, and firing on all 3 with good compression, and squeeze the primer bulb as it bogs. if it picks up, you can bet its the fuel pump. if the pump is bad, it will fall on its face right away but idle happily for 5...
i dont think the dowels are of particular concern, but the shimming sure would be. thats something that must be done. you could get lucky and its fine, but thats a risk i wouldnt take after all that work.
yep. for a couple hrs then run the motor. to get everything off i use grease to seal the rings off and a soft wire wheel to get all carbon off with engine tuner, then polish off to remove any micro scratches just to be safe but there are never any as im not pressing hard w. the dremel
they look very good to me. id get those pistons soaked in engine tuner or power tune while the heads are off to remove all carbon until they are very clean with a brush. this will cut down on heat buildup and thus chances of detonation. should be done religiously 50 hrs without fail.
