Here are some of my go to places for VP OEM
Doug Russel Marine link
Leaders RPM link
Cecil Marine link > Cecil also sells Barr
Other places that folks have had positive success with is Marine Parts Express link
And of course, the OEM themselves: Volvo Penta Shop
And someone I and others have...
While your workaround may be working for now, I am sure you can appreciate that this is not the way to go. Best to find the issue and solve it. And I know this forum can help get you there.
I am unsure of your configuration. Best to post engine serial no. for those who can help better to be...
Sorry for the delay. Looks like you are in good hands with Lou and Scott. Here is some tips and tricks on the risers and manifold removal, replacement, see post #18 of this thread link. Also, I have put in the Barr product and been happy with it.
And nice follow up with the explanation of your...
OK, so let’s reset and start at the beginning: a new to you boat and had 30 hrs last season of no issues. What changed? Ie did you do an impeller replacement and now it overheats? Please provide in chronological order what was done (maintenance wise) and when started to experience overheating...
There are many things that can cause an overheating situation. They range from the intake hoses in the sterndrive are sucking air, to the Raw Water Pump (RWP) (aka seawater pump) not working properly to T-stat, to blockage in the output, etc.
So before jumping to the conclusion that it’s the...
I had a similar problem on my 2005 VP 5.0 GXi-E when I first got it. Kicked my butt and my local marina’s as well (neither of had scanners). Was taking a similar approach (shotgun parts) and eventually found my MAP sensor was all crapped up due to ‘belt dust’. Cleaned it up and ran perfect. Also...
It’s not unusual for tachs to go a little wonkery as they age. What typically happens is the 4/6/8 selector switch on the back of the tach gets a little corrosion under it and causes it to misread.
My suggestion: get behind the tach if you can with a flashlight and find that little sliding...
While there is an issue with the control / neutral safety switch I am curious as to your starting procedure. Reving a cold, just started, engine is not good but I suspect you mean that you have learned it starts best if it is slightly above idle.
Post repairs per above, and assuming a carb’ed...
Frankly I am confused or perhaps simply ill-informed. I do not understand how the engine can run without the intake plenum (manifold) nor do I understand that it only runs a full throttle > is the RPM raging at 3K or 4K and without cooling water?! > or it is barley putting along even though the...
Giving your money constrains and experience my suggestion is let the teardown be your guide. Develop your minimal basic plan on the inspection after teardown. And if still have some bucks to spare start adding in elements a la carte where the menu items are listed in priority order of need with...
As the others indicated, you should be good to go and if you desire to investigate more, that can be done. However, I am concerned about your symptoms to get up on plane. A V-8 5.0 with low compression (but not that low) on only one cylinder I would not expect to significantly degrade the...
Based on the original symptoms after just putting on a new cap and rotor my thoughts were there could be an issue with distributor wiring arrangement. After your pictures of which wires went were, I felt sure there was some ‘crossed wires’ hence the suggestion to validate. Note: by “crossing” I...
Searay
I have been offline for a while so just reading thru your success (congrats!) and next issues. A couple of things if you do not mind.
While glad simple as cap and rotor, which we were all thinking, I am curious about the suspicion that a couple of the plug wires were ‘crossed’ and on the...
