Better shop is an understatement and perceived business idea. No one around here works on motors older than 1999. Ok,
As far as the pump goes there are not any that I can find that mention anything different than another. The ones that look like I need look just like the one I’ve got. They...
Just for the sake of all things I’m not a mechanic. I get
all my info here or on YT. This is my first year so please bear with me. I was told it was a one way valve from the guy at the shop. If I were to remove it then what do I put in its stead? This is a 3cyl calling for 3 hoses on the...
Ok but I don’t know what to look for on the cylinder walls. I also determined All 3 fuel bowls are filled with fuel. But the “the checking to see if fuel pump is bad is to simply loosen the screws used to attach the pump to the bracket only a few turns. In doing so just one complete turn...
Im not sure if I know that answer but I do know the pulse tube that goes from the fuel pump to the motor block had a one way valve on the bottom of the motor. I don’t know if this is correct or not, but the fuel pump has an open hole on that has a pulsating air that comes out of it. It’s loud...
Ok checked out the tell tail and yes it is on the side and bottom. I can change that fairly easy. I just didn’t think that would have anything to do with my current issue.
Went to go see if I could order a powerhead gasket set but the guy said “do you expect it to be like new? 94...
Hey Brodmann. Thanks. So I had my boy squeeze the primer bulb while running and that didn’t change anything. In fact the bulb feels fairly solid. I can squeeze it but it’s not loose.
I know it’s a jet behind that bowl plug screw. Orifice Plug is what the name of it is on the parts...
Yes because the last week it’s been bogging and when I press in the primer solenoid switch at the key it gets better and everything I read on here says if it gets better it’s the carbs are dirty still.
If I understand your tell tale sign to be the head gasket fitting is off the side of the...
1990 70hp Johnson 70TLESB
A 2 months ago my motor was running great. Then it began to idle with a terrible but rhythmic shake. But when I had it at WOT it ran smooth but not having a tachometer the only thing I could measure in the difference is speed. My speedometer is digital and gps...
Ok so the negative of the battery is definitely grounded on the block. When I began this process that one random ground, to which I have no idea where it comes from was grounded to the front and outside of the motor, which I believe is a removable plate cover. It was loose and very corroded so...
I think mine was coming out of the bottom of the main motor area and attached at the front of the motor. It was very corroded and so I cleaned it up soldiered a new wire and moved it to a more secure ground spot on the frame of the motor. Could that cause slow intermittent crank and start?
Sorry it’s an OEM starter. How is the best way to check the “neutral only” switch? Its fairly new as well. Installed that along with the new temp alarm back in October. Not saying it’s not bad, just don’t know how to check.
