Riv nuts/nutserts WILL fail. They are made for sheet steel. You can drill a hole in the center of your rail pad big enough to get a welded nut/fender washer combo thru the hole and glue in place x 4.
Also hilti toggler will work but they dont come in stainless. They kinda work like butterfly...
I tow mine up without issue.
I do put a small c clamp on the arched gear assy where if there were a failure it would wedge in the gear/sprocket. The order is drain plug in,clamp off, bats on... go 🚢 then when done i reverse that order. I never have bats on with clamp on. EVER
With the old singers there are belt drive and gear drive. I got the belt drive because thats what I found and I have a commercial walking foot. The only limitation I have had so far with the singer is smaller thread size. I dont try to go thru several thick layers, that's what my other machine...
In that auto restoration world they have a chrome paint. Not the fake rattlecan stuff but a real 4 or 5 layer process but I bet it aint cheap. Can do black or red chrome colors too
I have 2 "sensors" the higher one is a regular float. The lower one is an actual electrical sensor that is made from a piece of 1/2 copper pipe, 12guage copper wire and a transistor with some other misc electronics and a relay. No float to get stuck up and never had pump stuck on because of debris
Here is something kinda on/off target...
We had a Rollercoaster at one of the places I worked at and depending on the temp out we would go from 10wt to 40wt. And in mid summer we would switch to grease. It was all about adjusting speed. Oil did make an awful mess. I have no experience with boat...
