This project is already done. I did end up heating the prop to delaminate the hub, then cut the hub off the shaft. Then I couldn't get the carrier out to change the leaking seals, so I ended up salvaging the lower internals and sourcing a freshwater case from the Carolinas. Setting up the new...
Success! Got the boat back in the water and the drive is super quiet. I feel really good about it.
I attend church with a retired Volvo mechanic, and he backed me up on the initial setup hypothesis: the initial measurements for all three shim points are done on the bench, meaning you don't...
I bought a freshwater donor case off eBay, so this case is irrelevant to me. I cut the carrier out, which I am probablyh keeping for the new build.
My uncle ran a dive boat from Summerland Key for decades. He knows about salty outdrives and told my father if that outdrive came into a shop they...
Another question, the drive that self destructed has some lovely gray paste inside. What disintegrated is one of the large main bearings, which released tension and destroyed the pinion completely and took some chunks out of the teeth on the shafts.
Is my bearing carrier no longer trustworthy...
Having been unable to remove my bearing carrier from my salty drive, I have purchased a good replacement case from a freshwater unit that self-destructed internally. I will be transferring the good internals of my salty drive over to the new case.
Having read through the setup procedure, I see...
Thanks. That's the DPS-A/B drive, I believe. Mine is the DP-SM and has a different retaining ring, but uses the same extraction tool shown in this diagram. But that tool would literally strip the threads off my outer prop shaft before it would pull that carrier free.
600F on the housing and no movement. So I used a contractor bag and duct tape to make a soaking tub. 50/50 acetone and ATF, with a fair amount of dish detergent to help the miscibility. I'll give it a couple days and then decide if I'm going to cut out the carrier or not.
I have been spraying oil on the corrosion at the aft end of the carrier. Is there also corrosion on the front end that I'm not getting to?
Tomorrow I'm planning to heat up the housing, hoping those O-rings will give up and let my people go. If that doesn't work I'll bring a plastic tub out and...
Isn't it true that the carrier is riding on rubber O-rings? The carrier metal is probably 50 thousandths or more smaller than the bore of the housing, right? I don't even understand what's fighting me on this.
I think I know what you're suggesting, that I can pull the lower and put it into a...
I will be doing that, since I'm taking the case to get the chip welded up. Do you think it's easier to do this on the bench than mounted in the air? I might get more solid transfer of the shock force.
She's a salty mess. I had a frozen forward prop that I had to cut off the outer shaft. Then I had a frozen retainer ring that over 1500 ft lbs of torque would not budge. I cut that out, too.
Now I have a 5lb sliding hammer attached to the bearing carrier and I'm beating on it like crazy, to...
This was the winner. You can deliver heat to the outer prop body without getting near the shaft seals, and doing so makes the delamination quite easy. We took a 3-jaw puller and replaced the jaws with chains and hooks. The blade was not damaged at all, even though we really cranked on it...
I suspect that's rubber between the two surfaces, because while you're using the puller it fights you like crazy and then when you relax the puller the prop goes back a half inch! It's crazy. It feels like the rubber is rolling out with the prop and then snaps it back. Only after you get to a...
The prop and its hub are slipping apart as I've used the puller. I was pulling against the center splined shaft, which is the power output shaft of the other (rear) prop. It would be hard for me to find a pipe of the precise diameter to push on the outer splined shaft alone, but it may be...
