If there is a plastic section near the circulation pump on the port side check that there are no pieces in it. I found some in it on the Donzi I had.
Most likely you have Bravoitis due to some of the sealing grommets on the incoming water passages
The ultimate cure is to put a sea suction...
Did the new distributor come with a new rotor?
From past experience when a rotor heats up they will go to ground at coming on plane and coming off as that is when he most load is on the ignition system.
I once had a similar problem with the same engine in my Donzi. I finally cured it with the...
The 2 bolts that mount the solenoid could be 3/8” or phillips head or even 5/16”, hopefully not torx. The copper lead at the bottom of the solenoid going into the starter housing is 5/16“ hex. After the bolts and wires are remove rotate the solenoid 90* to remove it.
Good luck.
There is an orifice in the thermostat housing that allows water to “by pass” the thermostat that may be clogged up with a rust buildup. If you have access to a blast cabinet that will clean it out otherwise just scrape it out as best you can.
When the key is turned and the starter is engaged there is no or very little voltage at the + side of the coil provided from the ignition switch, that is the purpose of the ”by pass” circuit on the starter solenoid to provide voltage at the coil.
Just check the coil to make sure there is 12...
With a volt meter on the + side of the coil crank the engine over. You should read 11-12 volts. If it is much lower then the “by pass” circuit from the outer connector on the starter solenoid is the problem.
To further prove out the problem run a jumper wire directly from the + battery to...
I beg to differ about the drive pump being enough to cool a F/W conversion.
Years ago I tried it, the V8 engine would overheat above 3k rpm. I know the drive pump will keep an inline engine with F/W cooling and maybe a V6 but I learned the hard way about V8s.
I never got to try it with a...
Just to be clear Volvo 280 drives came with power trim “hydraulic” and just power tilt for beaching. The tilt is not a power trim so which one was removed? As I said before the stainless button has to be free with no binding to move up and down.
As far as the setting pin being in the last...
After the engine is out look closely at the seal surface on the crankshaft. It may be grooved or there is a build up of rust which will cause pitting. Either way you can repair the surface with a Speedy Sleeve that will provide a smooth stainless surface. They come in many sizes and their web...
When did this problem begin? I helped someone recently and it turned out it was a combination of the aluminum shift lever ,the stainless shaft that the lever attaches to and the shift slider.
Most transom angles are 14*. Did you change it? The stainless button that protrudes from the suspension fork has to move freely and not contact the bottom of the lift system. Which hole is the setting pin in ? I realize with the boat in the water it would be hard to check these suggestions.
