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maybe recovering from covid is making me do crazy stuff...
yesterday, rip the old sensor apart without stepping back to understand why the screw popped loose but then locked up...
today, grinded the new sensor to align to the holes in the housing, didnt want to wait for new part....install the...
of course I didn't...that would be no challenge :) ....arggg, the aftermarket sensor screw holes dont align up to the housing....I only bought it cause it was one day shipping....will order the OEM today
haha, just found the root of my issue...there's a nut holding a BLACK wire to that screw...on the bottom of the housing....arggggg!!!!!
removed that and with a vise, was able to remove the exposed screw....only took all day to remove this....two trips to shop to buy tools to remove stripped...
that screw is not coming out, looks like it will break...
can I break it and drill right thru it...this would be OK correct since theres nothing on the other side....the screw looks like it goes right thru to the other side of the bottom plate
which screw is used for GND or its not in this new...
I screwed up royally....I stripped the sensor screw and bent it....I broke the sensor to expose the screw but still cant remove with a vise...I used a dremel to cut a groove for a flat head screw driver and now its really messed up :)
it was pretty easy melting the plastic with a soldering iron. came right out
so close but yet so far, the two screws for the sensor is locked tight...using PB blaster, was able to remove one but stripped the other, yikes...
its OK to spray BP blaster in that area correct???
gotcha, I misread....thought the cap was loctited and was so relived when I easily remove it :)....
OK, saw on youtube, someone cut the rotor open with a hot knife, less messy and less likily to damage anything...will try that...
feeling better today so back at it this morning...removed the disti cap, pic below
the sensor is below the rotor...do you have to remove the rotor to install the new sensor...the rotor feels stuck and probable wont come off without some brute force....
Before I apply brute force, just want to...
understand, I was just curious and asking random questions...
I was referencing the "deadman" switch. achris and scott have answered my question...thanks....
"The kill switch interrupts the 12v supply to positive side of coil (purple wire)."
Thats what I thought but it seems no matter what position the kill "man overboard" switch was on, I was getting 12V to the coil...I did this 2 wks ago so maybe I did it wrong...clueless back then...will test...
if I can manually cause a spark, does that mean all the wiring is OK....the kill switch and wiring is OK ????
I'm just curious, where does the kill switch wiring go to, tried to trace it on the boat but too many wires and long :)
sorry to complicate my issue with a bench test...anyhoo, followed yalls recommendation to put back into boat and follow flowchart
got 12V coming out of the module, then rapidly strike the GRN/White wire from module to GND, got sparks out of the ignition coil...YEAAAAAA
Looks like the issue is...
thanks, that seems complicated...I'm leaning towards just putting the coil back into the boat and use the flowchart to see if I can throw a spark...thanks
thanks all, I have gone over the flowchart how to debug the ignition several times. great stuff...
What I wanting to know if my setup to throw spark using a 12V battery and toggling the Battery GND to the Minus of ignition coil is correct...if so, then the new ignition coil is bad also and I...
