It's on braided fuel hose surfaces (filler and vent hoses), the painted fiberglass bilge wall, and a gasket joint between a painted cast iron thermostat housing and a cast aluminum intake manifold.
Per further review some of this was "dormant" in the past... seems the current temperatures and...
Went to change my fuel filter today and discovered fluffy white mold all over the starboard side of the bilge around the gas tank and on the thermostat housing:
For this situation, what's the best solution? Or will it resolve itself with time and use once the season starts?
My boat is grandfathered (1976 Starcraft Montego). The helm is somewhat crowded-in at least.
Wouldn't be hard to retrofit (ground the tach signal the same way the shift interlock kills the engine) but I've always heard not to since legally it'd be a one-way change.
I used a slide hammer that my boss loaned me. It used a "top hat" attachment that was just small enough to fit through the ID of the bearing; just feed it through, get the "brim" of the hat behind the inner race, and yank away.
Not sure if it was something he bought or something he made (or had...
Or better yet, find a buddy (in my case, my boss) who already has it and offers to loan it to you!
He got his as part of a set which included an aluminum "Donut" that converts the alignment bar into a bearing installation tool. Reportedly wasn't terribly expensive (although I think his set had...
Belated update: I found an Airhead Mable Tropic 3 in my local Walmart's clearance aisle for $100 the day before Thanksgiving. That ought to fit the bill... Looking forward to trying it out this coming season!
And now that we're in the offseason, I redid it this evening!
This time I used a Sierra kit. Partially to save a bit of money, partially to see if their product would work out better.
There were a few differences. One is that they're using a different style safety wire lug on the cable fork...
Ever since I acquired my 1976 Starcraft Montego (16'), one sore spot has been storage covers.
I've been through two seal skin covers (the standard blue material they offer) that were excellent new but in a matter of months/over a winter developed pinholes and stopped repelling water to the...
Noted. The bolts were loose... makes me think that's what did it in. Was hoping to not have to remove the plate (to avoid having to mess with the compression fitting while everything is flipped), but if not, it is what it is. I do have some machine shop access via work and a shop that I do...
Some findings:
I have my lines backwards in the earlier posts (braided line to transom, compression fitting nylon line to reverse valve)... But it doesn't matter:
The pump bracket was only attached to the bilge shelf with the three front bolts, which allowed for easier flipping of the pump...
Found this thread with a similar issue and what appears to be the same pump:
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/mercruiser-165-4-1l-trim-pump-leaking.400742/
May just be 4 bad o rings? The high pressure line is soaked but the low pressure line is dry.
Pump access isn't super great (as it's...
If it is the pump unit, it seems that I can upgrade to a newer unit somewhat easily since I'm already on a 2-solenoid setup... just would need to bypass the reverse lockout valve.
Wondering if maybe that's the way to go since the valve and pump are both wildly obsolete...
Been fighting a hydraulic issue the last two weeks.
Last weekend I found my drive I had raised the night before had fallen. Massive lagoon of oil in the bilge under the pump. Found the high pressure line was loose and was able to finagle a wrench down there to tighten it. Adding some 10W-30 and...
