Well you have fluid in the system that can apply force where needed even though you need to "grunt" a little if the pump quits. With electric, I would imagine that there is nothing.......you can't manually push electrons around in a bunch of wires. With cars and tractors, if the pump stops...
I'd investigate hydraulic assisted steering before I went electric. What's your problem with your OEM setup? Hard steering, releasing the steering wheel and the boat ventures off to the right or left?
Hard steering could be lack of lube in the linkage from the helm to or inside the engine...
Not knowing your experience with the subject, the engine needs to be vertical. The drain and vent screw(s) need to be removed. The pump equipped bottle of fluid is better as you can do a better/easier job. WM. sells the Mercury/Quicksilver LU lube in such a quart bottle and it's good for all...
Why not. Oil is there to keep metal off metal. The harder (better) the film the better the protection. In things that have to pump oil to get initial lube, thin oil is necessary in winter conditions but has to thicken up as temps rise. Otherwise the film isn't firm enough to prevent metal to...
Considered Ballistic props? Their SS blades have a lot of Rake and squared off, cupped tips on the blades. Lot of design there to get the bow up when you are after the MPHs. My last boat was a Crestliner 17 1/2' Fish Hawk dual console with a 2002 2 stroke 115 Merc. Prop was a 22P Ballistic...
I had a 2002 90. I didn't boat very often and when out for the first time after a long dry spell, It's thirsty. Bulb has to be hard and battery needs to be topped off. Key needs to moved to the ON position and pushed in for about 30 seconds prior to activating the starter to get some fuel to...
Having resurrected a well abused 1965 18'Starcraft 110 HP I/O...like sat half submerged in a marina for who knows how long...... The Starcraft and similar aluminum boats are easy to work on. Deck is plywood but easily removed. Transom probably not a problem but mine was and wasn't a problem to...
I bought a new Ranger with a Merc. 115 I6. As I was trying it out on my first outing, moving into the 55 MPH range it started chine walking....scared me at first as I didn't know what was happening. The selling dealer put a 13x24 Laser 3 blade SS on it. I didn't happen to look at the RPMs at...
I don't know if this got answered and I didn't look through the responses as I am here answering a different question. The Tstat operates up to about 2500 RPM (per the serv. manual) and the Poppet above that when increased flow is required. I don't know if I mentioned it here but in 2004 I...
According to Faztbullet's posts, the magnet on the float has a habit of falling off its mounting position and falling to the bottom of the tank. His description of a suitable fix is "hair-raising to me"....I'd just buy a new tank if I opted for a "fix it" solution. Having his credentials, if...
Plus the Looper has a tuned, reflective exhaust function where the exhaust from one cylinder helps to keep the raw fuel in the combustion chamber of a cylinder as the piston is closing off the exhaust port before the big bang. Initially that came to being with the OMC, Evinrude, Trump 3 cyl. 55...
How did that perform in F gear. Other than slow to slow planing speeds, I can't imagine that working. Once you are up to speed, half the blade area is in the air.
Well that makes sense. Same sort of thinking with small 4 cycle engines where they have a hump on the cam immediately preceding the "lobe" that opens them when desired, that cracks open one or both of the valves, reducing the compression and making it easier to pull start the engine. Once the...
I don't know how to relate to what you posted....no explanation to what you were referring. Torque x RPM equals HP more or less. Either you get it by torque, like the OMC 2 cylinder engines back in the day, running big bores at 4500 RPM or small cubic inch engines running at 6k
RPM, like the...
