The shaft looked good. I was just surprised how bad that impeller looked. Most of the time they almost look good enough to reuse. But if I go to the trouble of dropping the LU it's getting a new one. (y)
It's the one that came with the kit I bought from MasterTech......I believe it is a GLM kit, with new housing, bolts, gasket, and plate. Doing spark and compression tests is the only time it was cranked dry. Never started the engine dry.
Put a new water pump kit on my motor last week. It has been about 3 1/2 years since I changed this one. It is by far the worst looking one I have ever seen come out of this engine. The book says to change it every year, some folks say it can go five years or so. I usually do it every 3...
You might try posting in the Restoration forum or the Boat Topics and Questions forum about what paint to use.......there are lots of folks there that could point you in the right direction.
Before I painted my LU I considered leaving it bare aluminum. I polished it up good with some Flitz and it looked good. After one use it turned an ugly black color. I guess it is not the kind of aluminum that can resist tarnishing very well. So it got painted.
Nice work on that tapping job. I use yellow teflon tape on the threads that is made for natural gas lines and is oil resistant. Has worked well for me so far. I also use a hex head socket when removing or tightening the plug. Seems to fit better and less likely to slip and bugger up the...
In most cases, you HAVE to do your own work on these motors. The shops around here will not even look at an old Chrysler or Force, let alone do any work on them. If they can't plug in their laptop to give them a diagnostic code, they really don't want to mess with it. Old school trouble...
Yup, just like you said a couple years ago when I was wondering what year model my PH was.....you said to look behind the CD pack.....and there it was and I took that pic. (y)
These old motors don't have all that fancy diagnostics stuff. So it should only go off when grounded (testing) or it is overheating. I test mine by using a screw driver and ground it to a spark plug.
The diaphragm pumps the fuel......no fuel, no start. Even though it may not be torn or have any holes in it, it may be stiff from age. It should be very pliable/flexible or it won't pump fuel very well. If in doubt, replace it.
Yes, you do. Lots of opinions out there on brands, synthetic/non synthetic/synthetic blend, etc. I use Quicksilver Premium Syn Blend, mainly because it is readily available in my area. As long as it is TC-W3 rated it is all good. Some use Walmart Super Tech with good results. Some say it...
