I was playing around with weigh by getting a friend to move around the boat. Noticed that having someone sit at the front actually slows the boat down! Drops from about 20 knots to 18 knots when the person moves towards the front. Odd! Any ideas?
Ah interesting. My challenge is that it's a zodiac with somewhat complex/crammed transom!
I have what I believe are called 'ride plates' installed off the back of the transom to extend the hull further back around the outboard and make it easier to get on plane
There wasn't any spot to mount...
So all the install videos for transducers say you have to have it just barely below the boat hull, like 3/8".
I get that having it too high would mean the transducer ends up out of the water once you're on plane. But what's wrong with having it too deep??
I mean, when the boat is moving slowly...
18ft alu RIB with 50hp Yamaha. Current have the fuel tank and battery jammed right in the back by the transom. Looking to clean up my wiring and add a proper fuse box and stuff, so wanted to move the battery somewhere else with more room - curious if anyone has any advice!
I've heard that...
Figured this out I think, posting in case someone else is trying to do this.
There is a standard communication standard called NMEA 2000 for marine electronics which most devices like Garmin work with. The Yamaha outboard does NOT have an NMEA2000 output, but you can get a conversion cable...
I understand that my 2014 Yamaha F50LB has a speedometer output that you can connect to one of those overpriced Yamaha gauges. But is it possible to connect this to a Garmin chartplotter (ECHOMAP Ultra 106sv)?
I tried to search online but didn't come across anything obvious, thanks so much for...
18ft RIB zodiac with 50hp Yamaha outboard, currently have just one battery used for starting + electronics.
Just got a prawn puller which has a 3.4-30amp load range. I definitely don't want to drain my only battery and be stranded, wondering if I should be wiring up a secondary battery? Space...
I think that seems like a good list. Definitely spark and fuel system stuff, prop; maybe some electronics diagnostics along with fuses, maybe injectors but not sure how much can be done in the field beyond carrying a spare.
Always have a VHF and an InReach satellite communicator so getting help...
I've thought about it... Just hard to justify the extra weight/space considering boat is usually already pretty full on a bigger/longer trip. But yes, some redundancy in your means of propulsion seems like a really good idea!
Doing lots of remote multi-day exploratory trips in fairly remote areas, not a lot of other boats around. Sometimes landing/launching in surf and sometimes in shallow inter-tidal (i.e. breaking a prop is kinda likely 😬). I've had a basic set of tools onboard but thinking I should give what I...
Trying to read engine hours and codes for my 2014 Yamaha F50LB (50hp outboard)
Looking for an 'aftermarket' cable compatible with YDIS 2.0 (that's what the service manual seems to state if needed). I saw a few on Amazon but some state they only work with older YDIS 1.0 engines, while others...
@FishMan001 great advice, that's super helpful!
Ended up doing something very similar to what you suggested, but used a paper towel and some thin wire to plug the hole and prevent debris from getting in.
Managed to get the mating surface way cleaner/flatter. A bit of pitting but no more rust...
Yep. I figured it was either that or these were the original spark plugs that the engine came with in 2014... usually spark plugs are nickle plated, which serves as a sacrificial coating to protect the base metal from corrosion. But even if the spark plugs were high quality nickle plated, the...
While changing the spark plugs on a new to me 2014 50hp Yamaha outboard I noticed that 3 of the 4 wells have a fair bit of corrosion in them. This corrosion isn't just in the 'outer' surface of the well but extends to the machined mating surface against which the spark plug metal washer would...
