I didn't want to restore this 1997 Islander this summer

Old floors+ 12 dry wall screws = temp stand to hold my floor pieces while applying OTF. Made up a gallon, used 3/4 getting roughly two wet coats on everything.

Was this your area?

redneck joe said:

Was this your area?

https://kymkemp.com/2025/06/24/431102/

Click to expand...

That was it. I live in Central California. I’m about 3-4 hours to put in to San Fransico bay, Halfmoon bay, or Monterey. I have some good lakes around me for trout and Kokanee, but I enjoy fishing salt water much more and haven’t gotten a chance to fish for ocean run salmon. I saw videos of guys pulling out salmon over 30” long and fat over that weekend.

Last night I mixed up another 1/2gal of OTF and hit everything that still looked like it could take anymore. I think I’ll have minor touch up tonight and be done with that. I also ordered all new vinyl and carpet (and $200 worth of glue) so I can start putting this thing together as soon as I am satisfied the hull is as sealed as I can get it.

I saw on one of my previous posts where the use of “rooster” pit to describe the open air portion of my boat was censored. I had no idea that was an offensive term. Airlines still use it as far as I know. It’s way more suggestive with the little asterisks there than leaving the word.

Type it in one work, cockpit.

I got a warning on facebook for using the word kill in describing a kill switch.

You can also use unalive instead of kill.

M O B switch ?

My glue order was canceled because you can’t ship the good stuff to California.

Wtf?? Is there an alternative?I assume it auto corrected from gluvit.

AI Overview



+5
Based on the information provided, it's possible to ship Gluvit epoxy to California, but there are important considerations due to its classification as a hazardous material.
Important factors to consider:
Hazardous Material Classification: Gluvit, as an epoxy resin, is classified as a Class 9 hazardous material by the DOT.
Shipping Regulations: Shipping hazardous materials like epoxy involves strict regulations related to packaging, labeling, and documentation. You'll need to follow specific guidelines, which may include using approved packaging materials and appropriate labels.
Carrier Specific Requirements: Different shipping carriers (like USPS or FedEx) have their own regulations for shipping hazardous materials, and some may require special certification.
Proposition 65 Warning: Gluvit contains chemicals, like Crystalline SiO2 (Quartz), that are known to the State of California to cause cancer, requiring a Proposition 65 warning. This means the product or its packaging should display this warning when shipped to California.
Contact the Manufacturer or Seller: For specific guidance on shipping Gluvit to California, it's highly recommended to consult directly with the manufacturer or a trusted local distributor. They can provide accurate and up-to-date information on shipping requirements and regulations.
In summary, while shipping Gluvit to California is possible, it's crucial to understand and comply with all applicable hazardous materials regulations, and to be aware of the Proposition 65 warning associated with the product.

No, I got my gluvit, I ordered contact adhesive for new vinyl (DAP 1145 landau top spray grade) for installing new nautilus. The vinyl lays over the plywood and runs up the side of the hull a few inches. The center deck section and cabin deck need to be wrapped before installation. Everything else has little nicks and tears around the edges. I’ve come this far. . .
I plan to lake test for leaks this weekend and gluvit if I can’t find any, or fix what I find then gluvit everything. Then it’ll be time to start assembly but I decided to recover pretty much everything.

Nautolex*

Ok well if you need third party shipping logistics lmk.

Worst case scenario, my wife will be in Arizona next week, I just hoped to get a lot done while she’s away!

I had to slide the boat back on the bunks get my air hammer clear of a trailer cross member for some of the rivets. Now I am ready to get it back up to the bow stop, I think my roller is actually a little low. Is it just me or should this be raised about two inches so the roller center is just above the bow eye?

Yes it is. Line from the winch to the eye should be level or maybe an inch higher to allow the hook to clear

That may pull the boat too far forward. I put transom right at the end of the bunks.

The tounge on this trailer is very light with the trailer at the end of the bunks. I’d really like to carry it farther back to get space between the bow and the cross member but I think it’d be pretty squirrelly on the road like this. The trailer is probably a little long for the boat, but it hauls nice and I really like that it’s tandem axle even though I see these things on single axle trailers too. It’s at the back of the bunks with that gap, but the jack bounces when I climb over the transoms like this.

The goal for the day was to lake/leak test the boat (on the trailer) so this morning I am trying to get it ready move, hence attending to the bow stop. I decided I would make a small adjustment, raising the roller 2” and sliding the stop back about 3/4”. I noticed the flange where the bow stop is bolted to the trailer chassis had one corner bent up so I removed the U bolt and applied some love with a 4 lb hammer to the flange. It probably took 60 ft-lbs of running torque to get the nut off the U bolt and this is what is found. I don’t want to put it back on, today might turn into just tracking down a U bolt and not progressing the boat it self.
I also hammered out the corner of a fender I had off for better rivet access. The leading edge of the fender was rolled up pretty good when I bought it, I’m pretty happy with how that came out- it isn’t flawless but so much better.

Definitely watch the below link and just make sure the engine area is well supported with bunks. I'm not the expert but I think the engine areas need almost complete support or you hook the hull, leading to issues.