I didn't want to restore this 1997 Islander this summer

I did make it to the lake last weekend, man there were a lot of boats! I went to a lake I used to go to with friends when we would go tubing and sporting around in my friends’ 21’ Tahiti mini day cruiser with a 454 and Berkeley jet. I haven’t fished there just because there are other lakes around that I like to fish at, and this one is really the sport boat/ wake boarding/ jet ski scene.

I only found 4 more rivets leaking- it took a solid twenty minutes before there was enough water coming in to identify them. So tonight I got my last rivets bucked in. It’ll be Sunday before I can work on it again, so I hope to get through the small amount of work I need to do with the marine Tex, and then start going over seams and heads with gluvit, then on to building!
Also: I found an upholstery shop two towns over that sold the contact adhesive for the vinyl.

I got the last of the carpet out today, spent a bunch of time using some citrus paint stripper I had to get the stuck carpet bits out. Worked okay with a two hour soak and pressure washing. I also took the bolster pads off the gunwhale in the cockpit and the inner transom panel off. This boat is pretty stinking stripped now.

It got hot before I had a chance to start on gluvit. It’s only about 20-30% humidity here in the summer and we get into the 90s every day, and can have weeks of 105+, so I have to find the early morning opportunity to get things like that done. I don’t have to wait long for them to set up and dry though!
This hull doesn’t drain well on a good day, and in the event I took on any more water I really want to put a pump in the cabin. If I use a screw in access cover like I have for the deck over the fuel tank I have about 5” to the bottom of the hull, so I should be able to mount on of the little all in one type units, Atwood or something.
I’m looking for in out here- I think I should plumb it to its own outlet port. I think the aft port is too far for these little guys to push water. I could run it through the starboard side right behind the cuddy at the same height below the tub rail as the original. Is there a reason not to? Should I use or do I need a check valve?
I am also upsizing the one in the aft of the boat and will need a bigger outlet. If I wanted to use my current (new this year) bilge pump as an aux/back up, maybe mounted a little higher- is it a bad idea to use a Y fitting to a single outlet? Again- check valves?
The OEM port is only about 9” down from the rub rail, so does not have a full foot of air gap/ loop above the outlet.

One more project I am trying to get done in this round- I have a 15hp kicker on the Port side, I am looking for a configuration where I can get both batteries on the Starboard side to get a little more balanced. They are group 27 and 9 months old, and don’t fit side by side, and there isn’t room in the compartment to rotate them. I think I can get on in the original location and then build a custom panel and access door and get the second one below it, where I could pull out the jump seat and access the battery. Other than being a big job for potentially small reward, is there any big drawback?

Each should have its own outlet

Here is a major factor in why I don’t want to fix this boat right now. I can’t really work passed about 11 am on it, since I am doing this in my driveway. This is a mild summer though, we often don’t even get cool nights. It’s not unusual to stay over 100 passed midnight and never get below 85-90 degrees. It’s great weather for boating in the mountains.