1970s Starcraft SS 160 refinish

Hey guys, im the owner of a 1970's SS 160.
Ive owned it for many year, its my second ss 160. The first I got tired of motor problems and this one came with a Evinrude ETEC which has worked really well.

When I first purchased I replace the transom. I think that was maybe 8-10 years ago.

The floor was bad then but I wanted to just use it.

After neglecting to cover it over the winter last year the floors are really bad and the vinyl is all cracked and falling appart. ix up my boat. I was planning on checking for leaks and doing the gluvit route. It doesnt leak much, last boating trip out I tried running the pump and just a tiny bit of water came out. After pulling up the wrotten floor I found the PO had used what looks like pour in foam. It seems to have held up well despite the rotting wood and isnt waterlogged or soggy.

I have a very limited budget and was hoping to get back out on the boat in a month.

Im not sure how hard it is to redo the foam but thinking I might just leave it as is and just focus on flooring and upholstery repairs?

Boat is mainly used for fishing, some tubing with the kids. But im mainly just want it to be serviceable, easy to clean and durable.

As I start collecting material to put this back together Im wondering what floor covering y'all prefer? Im thinking Nautolux for the floor.

How many yards do you need? Im also thinking I will wrap the side panels in this as well.
How many pieces of marine ply do I need? 3?

Best re think replacement of the foam.

Now way the deck looks as it does w no migration of water into the foam.

Core drill the foam in a few places and leave the foam plug out, and see if hole fills w water.

I pulled out some of the foam, its dry (but im in utah and the boat has been in the heat with no rain for a long time)

BUT after closer inspection I see that the PO left holes in the bottom of the boat. It looks like they may have accidently drilled through the rib all the way through to the bottom when attaching the decking at each end of the rib? Anyway the holes were filled with 5200. I either have to remove all the rivets in each rib so I can remove the rib and put in a solid rivet to fix the hole or I could use a closed end blind rivet. Im thinking the closed end rivet approach as removing and replacing that many rivets for each rib looks intimidating.

What would you recommend.


Considering these holes im now planning on removing all the foam so I can use gluv it or coat it on each rivet.

For a below the water line close end rivet would it be better to have aluminum mandrel rivet or stainless mandrel. I read the stainless will pull the rivet tighter but I understand the concerns with corrosion between to different metals.

How many holes

14

redneck joe said:

How many holes

Click to expand...

14 holes total, one hole underneath each side of 7 of the ribs.

Foam popped out easy in big chunks, you can see the big rusted screws in the ribs, also I have a cracked knee brace? at the transom that will need work. Plan on putting some angle aluminum to double up where the tab is cracked.

Man o man o man you did get lucky on that foam.