Evinrude big twin 40

racerone

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If you were skiing behind the wonderful 40 , you would see water pouring out of the exhaust relief.-----Then when you dropped off the skier and at idle lots of water vapor / " steam " would pour out of exhaust relief.----When engine settled after idling a bit , water would spit out of exhaust relief again.
 

Open Water

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Apr 28, 2025
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Well I spoke too soon. The lower unit still has water getting into the oil. Went for a ride on Lake Minnetonka yesterday. Found out this 14’ is no match for the wakes made by the rigs on that lake. The only part I haven’t changed is the driveshaft. Gave it a good run, from Gray’s bay landing to a restaurant in Excelsior, and back. 10 miles total. If you remember the bearing under the top seal was in pieces. New bearing and seal. I could feel wear on the driveshaft but it was smooth. I’d like to see clean oil after I replaced all seals and o’rings.
 

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tphoyt

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I can’t remember if you did a pressure or vacuum test or not. I would do a pressure test and spray soap water around any seals if nothing bubbles up drop it in a bucket water while under pressure and see if that reveals anything. If not try a vacuum test some seal can leak in one direction but not the other.
 

Open Water

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H
I can’t remember if you did a pressure or vacuum test or not. I would do a pressure test and spray soap water around any seals if nothing bubbles up drop it in a bucket water while under pressure and see if that reveals anything. If not try a vacuum test some seal can leak in one direction but not the other.
Had Pressure test done before I changed seals and o’rings. Guy said it held all night. Go figure, but I was getting water in. The bubble test sounds good, at least it’s something I can see. What do I use? Tube, gauge, stater valve ? How much air pressure?
 

jimmbo

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If the Driveshaft is Worn/Corroded, all the Seals in the World aren't gonna fix the Problem
 

tphoyt

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H

Had Pressure test done before I changed seals and o’rings. Guy said it held all night. Go figure, but I was getting water in. The bubble test sounds good, at least it’s something I can see. What do I use? Tube, gauge, stater valve ? How much air pressure?
There are a few way to get air in. The adapter from the Lu oil pump bottles came in very handy.
I use them on a piece of hose with a schrader valve it. Around 10 psi is all that needed. You don’t want to try and blow a seal.
 

Open Water

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If the Driveshaft is Worn/Corroded, all the Seals in the World aren't gonna fix the Problem
New driveshaft is 200.00 I was leaning in that direction. I see now there is supposed to be a heat shield over the control wires leading to the lower unit. We’ll see if that is available. I’ve got time, won’t see hard water here till about Thanksgiving.
 

racerone

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Should be lots of driveshafts on E-bay.----These were the same for many years.
 

Open Water

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This sat for 4 days, it’s better. I’ve got the parts ordered.
Well, replaced driveshaft, plate under water impeller, top driveshaft seal/ again, and added heat shield to control wire. Yesterday was 85 in MN. Took her out for a good test run. Gear lube looks good, not perfect but better. I’m going to stop with this lower unit before I break it. I’ll switch over to a finished project post. Might take me awhile to put it together. This is the prop that was on the motor. Had some damage, local shop repaired it. Between that and the new driveshaft. I’m trying to imagine less vibration. Might be in my head because of what it cost me.
 

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jimmbo

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You need to be running between 4000 - 5000 rpm, preferably closer to 5000. Any Idea what the Pitch is on that Prop?
 

Open Water

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You need to be running between 4000 - 5000 rpm, preferably closer to 5000. Any Idea what the Pitch is on that Prop?
The leading cause of vibration is propeller damage. Now that I had it refurbished it’s better. I’m not going to change the prop. Engine isn’t lugging or over revving. No tach on this thing
 

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jimmbo

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The leading cause of vibration is propeller damage. Now that I had it refurbished it’s better. I’m not going to change the prop. Engine isn’t lugging or over revving. No tach on this thing
Oh, you have calibrated Tachometer Ears...
 

tphoyt

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The muffler belt. I like that one and will add it to my list. As they say you learn something new ever day.
 
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