Reeds?

N

Nordin

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Do you give it a little bit throttle (pull the knob and give some throttle) when staring it warm or just idle?
 
WinnerCougar74

WinnerCougar74

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Using throttle while the motor was warm helped a little bit not much. I think I will have to either accept that it's gonna be a pain to start this motor when it's warm or just move on to something else.
 
WinnerCougar74

WinnerCougar74

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Well, it's been a few months with of boat trips. Probably about 6 trips. Extra throttle warm or cold doesn't make much difference with warm starts. It cold starts flawlessly. Pump the fuel bulb, push the throttle forward, push in the choke, a few seconds later it starts and runs. The idle screws are set to 3/4 turns out. Once when it was early in the morning out on the water between 50 and 60 it started nicely but as soon as it got towards 70 outside it started to give me trouble starting it. Even throttling up didn't help much. IT would eventually start. Seems very strange to me. There must be something causing it to run rich. The most likely cause is leaking float bowl inlet needles but they both seem good and have been replaced. It runs flawlessly after starting and zips right up to max rpms. Also I am getting 3 mpg with 6 grown ups in the boat. I know because I can physically measure how much fuel I used on some recent joy rides. 7 gallons to go 22 miles @ 4000 rpms.
 
N

Nordin

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I assume you have checked and set the floats in the carbs soo they are parallel with the casting when turned upside down.
Do you prime the bulb when starting when it is warm?
 
WinnerCougar74

WinnerCougar74

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Floats are correct, I only prime when I start it for the first time at the ramp.
There are many things that can make a Chrysler 135 run lean but not many that can make it run rich. Seems like only 2 things 1. rich mixture screw setting 2. leaking float needle
 
N

Nordin

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Try to prime the bulb easy when starting warm and feel if it is firm, our you can add some fuel to the bowls.
Maybe the bowls are not filled enough.
Check the plugs when you have tried to start it cold and it is not firing up.
Are the plugs wet or dry?
Try to find out if it is fouling the plug or not.
If you choke it does fuel pour out of the carbs?
 
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WinnerCougar74

WinnerCougar74

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I have another idea, when I got this outboard 7 years ago the thermostat was missing, I just assumed it was because the old one went bad and they were to cheap to replace it, but maybe this outboard runs better cold. I'm gonna take it out and find out.
 
M

Mc Tool

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WinnerCougar74 said:
I have another idea, when I got this outboard 7 years ago the thermostat was missing, I just assumed it was because the old one went bad and they were to cheap to replace it, but maybe this outboard runs better cold. I'm gonna take it out and find out.
Click to expand...
I guess there's a 1st time for everything .:D
Farrrrr out , I cant believe we have got to the 3rd page and not one of the "usuals " has demanded to know the compression . Tired 2 strokes can be hard to start when hot .
Do a cold comp test and then do a hot one and compare the two .
 
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WinnerCougar74

WinnerCougar74

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Looks like this thread may be coming to an end. This outboard was running great all day out on the water yesterday after removing the thermostat. Started right up in 30 degree weather, after running a little and siting and fishing it started right up all day, super happy and thinking finally it's great, then on the way back, running about 3800 rpms for about 10 minutes I heard a bit of a pop and then the engine slowed way done, it started back up but could only get it up to around 2000 rpms, we limped back to the dock. Gonna make up a new thread to get some help.
 
jerryjerry05

jerryjerry05

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May 7, 2008
Messages
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WinnerCougar74 said:
Looks like this thread may be coming to an end. This outboard was running great all day out on the water yesterday after removing the thermostat. Started right up in 30 degree weather, after running a little and siting and fishing it started right up all day, super happy and thinking finally it's great, then on the way back, running about 3800 rpms for about 10 minutes I heard a bit of a pop and then the engine slowed way done, it started back up but could only get it up to around 2000 rpms, we limped back to the dock. Gonna make up a new thread to get some help.
Click to expand...
"A bit of a pop" ??? Any pop, cough, stutter can cause a gasket to blow and the motor is going to suck air and the performance goes out the window. The first test is the "Starting fluid test" Start the motor and spray SF around the intake side of the motor. Undeer the coils, packs and intake manifold, and the port covers. Once a gasket "pops" it's hard to see but can be found using the SF test.
 
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