Cotter pin for Prop...Any one will do??

C

crazy charlie

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
5,624
Gonna need a new cotter pin for my Yamaha outboard. I have a Tractor supply store right down the block. A matching size cotter pin should work..?? Btw,I dropped my pin somewhere and figured I would find it with a magnet...NOPE ,it's not magnetic .Usually means it is stainless..?? Charlie
 
dingbat

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,813
If your in salt, you want a 316 Stainless cotter pin.
Typical "big box" 303-304 Stainless cotter pin w/not cut it
 
T

tphoyt

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
1,860
Grabs few while you’re at it so you have them next time. I keep extras along with extra nuts and thrust washers attached to my spare prop. You just never know when will wish you had them with you. And keep them on the boat. They don’t help if their in the garage. Trust me on that.
 
J

Jeff J

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 23, 2021
Messages
376
I would recommend stainless no matter where you are. I accidentally installed a plated cotter pin a couple of years ago while replacing a damaged prop. A month or so later the boat came in for oil change and the cotter pin had corroded bad. The split ends broke off instead of straightening for removal. The loop end broke off and the remains in the prop shaft had to be knocked out with a drift punch because nothing broke straight and the pieces had swelled with corrosion. Except for servicing, these boats stay on a fresh water lake year round. Supposed to be on lifts when not in use.
 
Texasmark

Texasmark

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Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,881
tphoyt said:
Grabs few while you’re at it so you have them next time. I keep extras along with extra nuts and thrust washers attached to my spare prop. You just never know when will wish you had them with you. And keep them on the boat. They don’t help if their in the garage. Trust me on that.
Click to expand...
Back in the '50's dad bought a 10 HP Scott Atwater outboard. Where the tiller handle attached to the engine proper there was a flat area on the top side and installed in a hole therein was a rubber holder with 2 "shear" pins and accompanying cotter pins. Very thoughtful.....we referred to the "drive" pins as shear because every time you were in a difficult situation....windward side of rip rap (where the fish fed for example) the wind would blow you against the rocks and you would shear a pin.....at the worst possible moment. OMC had them too but Mercury didn't....relied on a rubber slip clutch in the prop.....very nice. Mercury also must have over rated their engines because every time you saw a Mercury of comparable HP driving a similar boat you were watching it go by.......

Other thoughtful thing about the Scott was it had "Bail-a-matic" which was a suction port on the side of the midsection where their hose with metallic pickup were attached. Really neat, and probably the reason dad bought a Scott. Where we fished in salt water, we rented a 14' skiff and in the mornings going out the wind was low and things were smooth. By early afternoon the wind was usually blowing 15 give or take MPH and with open water and a skiff the wind usually blew spray into the boat and you had to have one hand on the tiller and the other grasping a can and bailing out the water.....the Bail-a-matic solved the baling problem.
 
A

airshot

Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
6,088
If you follow recommended maintainence schedules, SS pins are not needed for fresh water. Most all motor mfgrs highly recommend pulling the prop at season end or at least once per year to check for fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft ! The cotter pin needs pulled if you have one to remove the prop. Mfgrss also recommend replacing this pin rather than reusing the old one. In fresh water, never saw a corroded cotter pin in one years use, so SS is not critical if boating in fresh water.
 
A

airshot

Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
6,088
Texasmark said:
Back in the '50's dad bought a 10 HP Scott Atwater outboard. Where the tiller handle attached to the engine proper there was a flat area on the top side and installed in a hole therein was a rubber holder with 2 "shear" pins and accompanying cotter pins. Very thoughtful.....we referred to the "drive" pins as shear because every time you were in a difficult situation....windward side of rip rap (where the fish fed for example) the wind would blow you against the rocks and you would shear a pin.....at the worst possible moment. OMC had them too but Mercury didn't....relied on a rubber slip clutch in the prop.....very nice. Mercury also must have over rated their engines because every time you saw a Mercury of comparable HP driving a similar boat you were watching it go by.......

Other thoughtful thing about the Scott was it had "Bail-a-matic" which was a suction port on the side of the midsection where their hose with metallic pickup were attached. Really neat, and probably the reason dad bought a Scott. Where we fished in salt water, we rented a 14' skiff and in the mornings going out the wind was low and things were smooth. By early afternoon the wind was usually blowing 15 give or take MPH and with open water and a skiff the wind usually blew spray into the boat and you had to have one hand on the tiller and the other grasping a can and bailing out the water.....the Bail-a-matic solved the baling problem.
Click to expand...
The Scott At Water motor brings back fond memories....had a 7.5 hp with bail o magic system on my leaky old 12' tinny, when I was a young lad. My uncle was a fond Scott owner over the years. He owned a number of their motors, and they always seemed a little faster than others. His 22 hp was faster than an OMC 25 hp and his 28 hp Scott was as fast as my dad's 35 hp Johnson on the same 16' Lymans....
 
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