Winterization difficulty

R Lowery · Saturday at 10:08 AM

Okay, bare with me I am new here and this is my first post.

trying to partially winterize my boat.

I purchased this 19.5' spectrum with a blown 4.3l inboard a couple months ago. I was hoping to have it back together by now, but life happens.

engine is removed, it had a half cooling system, but I am concerned about the outdrive, it is also blocked in the raised position so the prop cup holds rain water.

How do I winterized the outdrive alone? I can probably lift the outdrive with a jack, remove hyd lines, and blocks and lower it. Do I need to pour antifreeze in it?

Thanks

Scott06 · Saturday at 10:13 AM

R Lowery said:
Okay, bare with me I am new here and this is my first post.

trying to partially winterize my boat.

I purchased this 19.5' spectrum with a blown 4.3l inboard a couple months ago. I was hoping to have it back together by now, but life happens.

engine is removed, it had a half cooling system, but I am concerned about the outdrive, it is also blocked in the raised position so the prop cup holds rain water.

How do I winterized the outdrive alone? I can probably lift the outdrive with a jack, remove hyd lines, and blocks and lower it. Do I need to pour antifreeze in it?

Thanks

the outdrive it self in the down position is self draining as long as the drain holes are clear. I spalsh some af in the prop hub to take care of any residual and if you leave it outside you should cover the prop ub so no snow/ice or leaves get in.

If you are worried about a new to you boat pull the drive and store inside until you can verify not crap is in there that will prevent if from draining also can make sure there is no water in the bellows either.

R Lowery · Saturday at 10:31 AM

Scott06 said:
the outdrive it self in the down position is self draining as long as the drain holes are clear. I spalsh some af in the prop hub to take care of any residual and if you leave it outside you should cover the prop ub so no snow/ice or leaves get in.

If you are worried about a new to you boat pull the drive and store inside until you can verify not crap is in there that will prevent if from draining also can make sure there is no water in the bellows either.

thanks.
it shouldn't be plugged, I took it on the water when i first got it so i could verify the drive worked before teardown. got 39mph with 2 cyl's being pretty knackered. and it spewing coolant from the heat exchanger(headgasket was blown between #1-#3 and pressurizing cooling system).

nola mike · Saturday at 11:26 AM

You removed the engine but kept the drive on?

R Lowery · Saturday at 11:34 AM

nola mike said:
You removed the engine but kept the drive on?

yep, never said i was smart, or experienced in boats.

Bondo · Saturday at 12:05 PM

R Lowery said:
yep, never said i was smart, or experienced in boats.

Ayuh,....... Welcome Aboard,..... You need to have the drive, Off, to put the motor back in, so do it now, then there's no worries,....

Scott Danforth · Saturday at 12:17 PM

agree with above

trying to swap a motor with the drive in is 5x as difficult than doing it with the drive off since you have to have the drive off to align the motor.

just drain the gear lube and pull the drive off the boat.

ROY WILLIAMS · Saturday at 2:41 PM

R Lowery said:
coolant antifreeze!

engine coolant antifreeze 50% - water distilled 50%
4.3L engine ...................

R Lowery · Saturday at 4:00 PM

ROY WILLIAMS said:
engine coolant antifreeze 50% - water distilled 50%
4.3L engine ...................

Yep, i will end up running Delo ELC for coolant. i like it in all the equipment at work i maintain.

Scott06 · Sunday at 8:27 AM

R Lowery said:
yep, never said i was smart, or experienced in boats.

Its much easier with drive off. Taking the drive off seems like a big deal until you have done it. You need an alignment bar to algin the engine and drive when you go back in. Worth looking at the coupler while engine is out as now is time to replace it. Again double check your stingers and transom before you get in too deep.

Was working on a friends boat this summer - fuel contamination. while working on it (2000 or 01 glastron) and notice heavy cracking around outdrive on transom... transom wet and rotten... looks like the swim ladder bolts let water in. So bottom line he is looking for a new boat vs doing bellow and cleaning out his fuel system .

R Lowery · Sunday at 9:12 AM

Scott06 said:
Its much easier with drive off. Taking the drive off seems like a big deal until you have done it. You need an alignment bar to algin the engine and drive when you go back in. Worth looking at the coupler while engine is out as now is time to replace it. Again double check your stingers and transom before you get in too deep.

Was working on a friends boat this summer - fuel contamination. while working on it (2000 or 01 glastron) and notice heavy cracking around outdrive on transom... transom wet and rotten... looks like the swim ladder bolts let water in. So bottom line he is looking for a new boat vs doing bellow and cleaning out his fuel system .

i will be keeping this boat, the 4.3l rebuild is a short term bandaid, i will end up swapping a v8 in, probably an LS 5.7

Winterization difficulty

Cadet

Admiral

Cadet

Vice Admiral

Cadet

Moderator

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats

Chief Petty Officer

Cadet

Admiral

Cadet